Review of Anti-Aging and Skin Brightening Cream Formulation

Okay, I can help review your proposed cream formulation for anti-aging and skin whitening.

First, regarding the DMAE percentage, your understanding from the conversation is correct. To get 4% active DMAE in your final formula using the 40% powder, you need to include 10% of that powder product in your total formulation (10% of 40% = 4%). If using the 20% liquid, you would need 20% of that liquid product (20% of 20% = 4%). So, using 10% of the 40% powder is the correct way to achieve 4% active DMAE.

Now, let's look at the overall formula:

Strengths:

• You have included several well-regarded ingredients for both anti-aging (Matrixyl 3000, Argireline, DMAE) and skin whitening (Activated Resorcinol, Vitamin B3, N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine, Licorice Extract).
• The concentrations of key actives like Vitamin B3 (3%), N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine (3%), Matrixyl 3000 (5%), Argireline (3%), and DMAE (4% active) are within effective ranges.
• Vitamin B5 and Allantoin are great additions for soothing and hydration.
• Phenoxyethanol is a necessary preservative.
• Pro Polymer is needed for the cream structure.

Ingredients that could potentially be removed or are less critical for the main goals:

• L-Tyrosine (1%): While an amino acid, its topical efficacy for skin whitening is not strongly established compared to your other whitening ingredients. You could likely remove this without significantly impacting the whitening effect.
• Apple Stem Cell Extract (0.5%): The scientific evidence supporting the anti-aging benefits of topical apple stem cell extracts is often debated and less robust than for ingredients like peptides or retinoids. You could consider removing this if you want to simplify or optimize.

Critical missing components for a "cream" formulation:

• Emulsifier: A cream is an emulsion of oil and water. You have a water phase (water, most actives) and a small oil phase (Rose Hip Oil). You absolutely need an emulsifier to mix these phases and prevent separation. Without it, you won't get a stable cream texture.
• pH Adjuster: Most cosmetic formulations need pH adjustment to ensure stability, optimal efficacy of ingredients (some actives work best at a specific pH range), and skin compatibility. You will likely need an acid (like Citric Acid or Lactic Acid) or a base (like Sodium Hydroxide) to adjust the final pH.

Other potential additions (optional improvements):

• More Emollients/Humectants: While you have Vitamin B5 and Allantoin, adding ingredients like Glycerin, Propanediol, or other light oils/esters could improve the texture, feel, and hydration of the cream, making it more pleasant to use.
• Chelating Agent: Ingredients like Disodium EDTA can help improve stability by binding metal ions that might be present in water or other ingredients.
• Antioxidant: Adding a dedicated antioxidant like Vitamin E or Ferulic Acid could provide additional benefits and help protect the formula from oxidation.

Summary:

Your formula has a good selection of actives for your goals. The main issues are the missing essential components for creating a stable cream (Emulsifier, pH Adjuster). You could consider removing L-Tyrosine and potentially Apple Stem Cell Extract if you wish to simplify. Ensure you carefully follow the instructions for incorporating DMAE powder (10% of the 40% powder product).

Remember to always test the stability and safety of your final formulation.