Anti-Aging Essence Formula Review

This formula incorporates a variety of potent active ingredients targeting anti-aging, hydration, and skin revitalization.

Ingredients and Concentrations

• Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (50%): This is a high concentration, known for its skin revitalizing and hydrating properties. While it can be used up to 100%, 50% is a significant amount that should provide good efficacy. Be mindful of the texture, as high concentrations can sometimes feel slightly greasy.
• Aqua (27%): The water base for the essence.
• Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine) (5%): This ingredient is included for its anti-wrinkle effects, helping to increase skin firmness, GAGs, and collagen. The recommended usage rate is typically 1-2%. Using 5% is above the standard recommendation. While higher concentrations might offer increased benefits, they could also increase the risk of irritation or may not provide a proportionally better result compared to the recommended rate. Consider if reducing this to 1-2% would still achieve desired results with less potential for issues.
• Wakame Extract (Brown Sea Weed) (3%): Known for anti-aging, lifting, and tightening effects by stimulating collagen synthesis. Your concentration of 3% is at the higher end of the recommended range (1-3%), which should provide good activity.
• Tetrapeptide-21 (3%): A peptide researched for wrinkle reduction and stimulating the Extracellular Matrix (ECM). Your concentration of 3% is within the recommended range (0.5-5%) and is a good active level.
• Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract) (1%): This extract helps enhance skin cell turnover, strengthen the skin barrier, and improve overall skin quality and hydration. Your concentration of 1% is the recommended usage rate (1-3%, recommended 1%), which is appropriate.
• Rosa Hybrid Cell Extract (HybridCell™) (2%): Stem cells from pink roses that stimulate collagen, inhibit collagen-degrading enzymes, moisturize, and improve elasticity and texture. Your concentration of 2% is the recommended usage rate (0.5-2%, recommended 2%), which is optimal.
• French Pine Bark Extract (Water Soluble) (2%): A potent antioxidant that supports collagen, hydration, and has anti-inflammatory and photoprotective properties. Your concentration of 2% is at the higher end of the recommended range (0.1-5%, recommended 1-2%). Higher concentrations can result in a more intense color in the final product.
• WaterLock™ (1%): This ingredient helps prevent water loss and improves skin hydration and feel. Your concentration of 1% is within the recommended range (1-2%).
• WhiteCumin™ 2x (3%): An extract from turmeric for brightening, reducing pigmentation, and providing antioxidant and anti-aging benefits. Your concentration of 3% is at the higher end of the recommended range (1-4%, recommended 2.5-3.0%), which should be effective for brightening and anti-aging.
• Laurocapram (Water Soluble) (2%): A penetration enhancer specifically for water-soluble active ingredients. Your concentration of 2% is the recommended usage rate (1-3%, recommended 2%), which will help improve the delivery of the water-soluble actives in your formula.
• Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus) (1%): A broad-spectrum preservative.

Considerations and Suggestions

1. Ingredient Concentrations: While many ingredients are within or at the high end of recommended ranges, the 5% concentration of Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine) is higher than typically recommended. Consider if a lower concentration (1-2%) would still provide satisfactory results, potentially reducing cost or risk of irritation. The 50% Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate is also very high; assess the final texture and skin feel to ensure it is acceptable.
2. Preservation: The note about using 1% Phenoxyethanol SA based on the water phase excluding Pitera is a critical point. Preservatives should be calculated based on the total weight of the final formula (100%) to ensure adequate protection against microbial growth throughout the entire product. Given the high water content and the presence of ferment filtrates, proper preservation is essential. Using 1% of the total formula weight for Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus) is generally appropriate for broad-spectrum protection in water-based formulas with a pH between 2.0-6.0. It is highly recommended to calculate the preservative percentage based on the total formula weight and perform a challenge test to confirm the efficacy of the preservation system for your specific formula.
3. pH Level: With several active ingredients, including Acetyl-Tyrosine which is acidic, it is important to check the final pH of your essence. Phenoxyethanol SA is effective in a pH range of 2.0-6.0. Ensure your final formula's pH falls within this range for optimal preservative efficacy and skin compatibility.
4. Synergy: The combination of ingredients appears well-chosen to address multiple signs of aging, providing hydration, antioxidant protection, and supporting skin structure.
5. Stability: With a high concentration of active ingredients and extracts, monitor the stability of the final product over time, observing for any changes in color, clarity, odor, or texture.

Overall, this is a comprehensive anti-aging formula with many beneficial ingredients. The main area to carefully review is the preservative calculation and ensure it is sufficient for the entire formula, as well as considering if slightly lower concentrations of some ingredients might be equally effective and potentially reduce cost or irritation risk.