Review of Anti-Wrinkle and Brightening Serum Formulation

Question

I would like to inquire about this anti-wrinkle, melasma, and skin-nourishing serum formula. Is this formulation effective, and should I adjust, add, or reduce any ingredients?

Formulation:

Water 64.5%
Yeast Radiance 4%
Gin-k 5%
Alpha Arbutin 2%
Safe-B3 5%
Acetyl Glucosamine 5%
Glycerin 1.5%
Xanthan Gum 0.5%
Pal-Ghk 5%
Dimethyl Isosorbide 2.5%
Acetyl Hexapeptide -8 4%
Mild Preserved 1%

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

The serum formula you provided is very well-designed and covers all your concerns: wrinkles, melasma/freckles, and skin nourishment. It uses high-quality active ingredients at effective concentrations.

Formula Analysis

Brightening & Melasma (Alpha Arbutin + Safe-B3 + GlucoBright + Yeast Radiance): This is a very strong combination. The synergy between Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide) and GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine) at 5% each is highly effective for reducing hyperpigmentation. Alpha Arbutin at 2% is the maximum recommended dose for intensive brightening.
Anti-Wrinkle (Pal-GHK + Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 + Gin-K): You have both collagen-stimulating peptides (Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR) and expression-line reducing peptides (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8). Gin-K™ (Ginseng Compound K) provides excellent anti-aging and skin-revitalizing benefits.
Penetration & Texture: Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) is an excellent addition to help the active ingredients penetrate deeper into the skin.

Suggestions for Improvement

pH Control (Crucial): Alpha Arbutin is most stable at a pH of 3.5–6.5. Since you are using Safe-B3™ and GlucoBright™, the ideal pH for this serum is around 5.0–5.5. You should use a pH meter or test strips and adjust with Citric Acid or Triethanolamine if necessary.
Hydration: The formula uses 1.5% Glycerin, which is a basic humectant. To improve the "premium" feel and provide deeper hydration, you might consider replacing some water with Hyaluronic Acid (e.g., 0.2% of a high molecular weight version) to give the serum a better glide and immediate plumping effect.
Texture: Xanthan Gum at 0.5% can sometimes feel slightly "tacky" or "stringy." If you find the texture isn't smooth enough, you can use a high-quality grade like Xanthan Gum (clear gel type, smooth texture).
Antioxidants: While the formula is already strong, adding a small amount of an antioxidant like Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) could help protect the skin from environmental damage, though it would require a solubilizer since it's oil-based.

Recommended Ingredients

Yeast Radiance™ (Brightening)
Gin-K™ (Anti-aging)
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland) (Brightening)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (Anti-wrinkle peptide)
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Expression line peptide)
Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) (Penetration enhancer)
Mild Preserved™ COS (Preservative)
Xanthan Gum (clear gel type, smooth texture) (Thickener)

Overall, this is a high-potency formula. If you have sensitive skin, you may want to patch test first due to the high concentration of active ingredients.