Review of Day and Night Acne Cream Formulations for Oily Skin

Asked by: kissmeagainn On: July 25, 2021 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Could you please review my day and night cream formulations for oily skin?

Day Cream Formula:

  1. Pure-Succinic™: 2%
  2. สารสกัดนมผึ้ง: 0.5%
  3. MOIST24: 3%
  4. Laurocapram (Water Soluble): 2%
  5. Easy Cream Maker™: 2%
  6. น้ำกลั่น

Night Cream Formula:

  1. BioSulphur™ EQ: 5%
  2. Easy Cream Maker™: 2%
  3. Mild Preserved Eco™: 1%
  4. น้ำกลั่น

I have two specific questions:

  1. Can Easy Cream Maker™ be mixed directly into BioSulphur™ EQ?
  2. If BioSulphur™ EQ is added to the day cream formula at 1-2%, will the color of the cream be too dark and problematic? Will it still be effective for reducing inflammation at this lower concentration?

Answer

Formulation Review and Questions

Day Cream Formula Review

Your day cream formula includes several good ingredients for oily and acne-prone skin:

  • Pure-Succinic™ (Succinic Acid): At 2%, this is within the recommended range for its antibacterial properties against P.Acnes and potential anti-inflammatory effects. It's water-soluble.
  • Royal Jelly Extract (10-HDA): At 0.5%, this is the recommended usage rate for reducing oiliness and providing antibacterial benefits. However, this ingredient is oil-soluble.
  • MOIST24: A good humectant for hydration without being heavy, suitable for oily skin.
  • Laurocapram (Water Soluble): A penetration enhancer specifically for water-soluble ingredients like Pure-Succinic™ and MOIST24.
  • Easy Cream Maker™: An emulsifier and thickener used without heat.

Potential Considerations for the Day Cream:

  1. Solubility of Royal Jelly Extract: Since Royal Jelly Extract (10-HDA) is oil-soluble, incorporating it effectively into a formula primarily thickened/emulsified with Easy Cream Maker™ (which is best for formulas with up to 10% oil, or used as a thickener in water-only formulas) might be challenging if your formula has a low oil phase or is intended to be oil-free. Ensure it is properly dissolved/dispersed according to its mixing instructions (dissolve in oil portion).
  2. Easy Cream Maker™ and Electrolytes: Easy Cream Maker™ is sensitive to electrolytes. Acids like Succinic Acid (Pure-Succinic™) and 10-HDA (Royal Jelly Extract) can act as electrolytes and potentially destabilize the emulsion or thickening effect of Easy Cream Maker™. You may need to test the stability carefully or consider an emulsifier that is more tolerant of electrolytes if you encounter separation or thinning.

Night Cream Formula Review

Your night cream focuses on oil control and acne treatment:

  • BioSulphur™ EQ: At 5%, this is within the recommended range (4-5% for oily face) for its effectiveness in reducing oiliness, tightening pores, and reducing redness from acne. It is a dark brown liquid.
  • Easy Cream Maker™: Used as the emulsifier/thickener.
  • Mild Preserved Eco™: A gentle, preservative-free option for microbial protection and also acts as a humectant.

Potential Considerations for the Night Cream:

  1. Easy Cream Maker™ and Electrolytes: Similar to the day cream, BioSulphur™ EQ (Ichthammol) may contain components that act as electrolytes, potentially affecting the stability of Easy Cream Maker™. Monitor the formula's stability.
  2. pH Compatibility: Mild Preserved Eco™ is effective in a pH range of 4-9. BioSulphur™ EQ can tolerate a wide pH range (2-11). Ensure the final pH of your night cream falls within the 4-9 range for the preservative to be effective.
  3. Mixing Mild Preserved Eco™: This ingredient should be mixed in the last step of the formula when it has a gel or cream texture.

Addressing Your Specific Questions

  1. Can Easy Cream Maker™ be mixed directly into BioSulphur™ EQ?
    It is generally best to follow the recommended mixing method for each ingredient within the appropriate phase of your overall formula. BioSulphur™ EQ's description suggests mixing it in the oil phase, while Easy Cream Maker™ is mixed in the oil phase (if oil is present) or water phase (if no oil). Mixing them together directly beforehand is not the standard procedure and might not lead to optimal dispersion or emulsification compared to adding each ingredient to its designated phase in the formula.

  2. If BioSulphur™ EQ is added to the day cream at 1-2%, will the color be too dark, and will it still be effective for reducing inflammation?

    • Color: BioSulphur™ EQ is a dark brown liquid. Adding it at 1-2% will likely impart a noticeable color (possibly light brown or grey) to your day cream, which might be undesirable for a product intended for daytime use.
    • Effectiveness: The recommended usage rate for BioSulphur™ EQ for oily face is 4-5%. While 1-2% might offer some minimal benefit, it is below the optimal concentration for significant oil reduction and anti-inflammatory effects compared to using it at 5% in your night cream. Your day cream already contains Pure-Succinic™ at 2% for acne inflammation. Adding BioSulphur™ EQ at a low concentration might not provide substantial additional anti-inflammatory benefits.
    • Compatibility: Adding BioSulphur™ EQ (a potential electrolyte) to the day cream formula using Easy Cream Maker™ (electrolyte intolerant) could increase the risk of formula instability.

In summary, both formulas contain appropriate active ingredients for oily, acne-prone skin. Pay close attention to the compatibility of Easy Cream Maker™ with the acidic/electrolyte-containing ingredients (Pure-Succinic™, Royal Jelly Extract, BioSulphur™ EQ) and ensure proper mixing methods are followed for each ingredient, especially the oil-soluble Royal Jelly Extract and the last-step addition of Mild Preserved Eco™. Adding BioSulphur™ EQ to the day cream at a low percentage might cause color issues and offer limited additional efficacy while potentially impacting stability.