Formulation Review

Here is a review of the two cosmetic formulations you provided:

Face Cream Formulation

This formulation includes several beneficial ingredients for skin:

• Disodium EDTA: Acts as a chelating agent, helping to stabilize the formula by binding to metal ions in water.
• GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine): Known for its whitening properties, ability to reduce dark spots, stimulate hyaluronic acid production for moisture, and gently exfoliate the skin.
• Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): A versatile ingredient that helps reduce wrinkles, minimize red/black marks, improve skin hydration by boosting ceramides, control oil, and can help with dark circles.
• Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5): A peptide that stimulates collagen production, aiming to reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
• Fractionated Coconut Oil: A lightweight, non-greasy oil that is easily absorbed and acts as an emollient.
• MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine): Works to brighten skin tone and reduce dark spots by targeting the melanin production pathway.
• Deoxyarbutin (D-Arbutin): A potent whitening agent that inhibits tyrosinase. Note that it can be irritating, and the recommended usage rate is typically lower (0.5-2%, with 0.5% recommended for whitening). It is also sensitive to heat and requires a specific pH range (5.0-5.8) for stability.
• Light Cream Maker™: An emulsifier and thickener that works without heat and can handle some electrolytes.
• Mild Preserved Eco™: A gentle, preservative-free option that also offers moisturizing and deodorant properties.
• AnyGel™ (Dehydroxanthan Gum): A water gelling agent that provides a non-greasy texture and is resistant to acids, alkalis, and electrolytes.

Mixing Instructions and pH:

The instruction to heat the oil phase to 80°C to dissolve MSH White Absorb and then add Deoxyarbutin when cooled is generally correct for MSH White Absorb. However, Deoxyarbutin should ideally be dissolved at a lower temperature (50-60°C) to maintain its quality. A better approach would be to heat the oil phase with MSH White Absorb to 80°C, let it cool to 50-60°C, then add Deoxyarbutin and ensure it dissolves before proceeding. Pep-Coll and Mild Preserved Eco should be added in the final cooling phase below 40°C and within the recommended pH range, respectively.

The target pH of 5.0-5.8 is suitable for the stability of Deoxyarbutin and is within the effective range for Safe-B3™ and GlucoBright™.

Body Cream Formulation

This formulation focuses on exfoliation and whitening:

• Disodium EDTA: Helps stabilize the formula.
• Glycopure™ (Glycolic Acid): An AHA that provides effective exfoliation due to its small molecule size. Its efficacy is highly dependent on low pH.
• X-Glycerin (Polyglycerin-10): A high-performance moisturizer.
• Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): Offers benefits like reducing marks, moisturizing, and improving skin barrier function.
• GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine): Contributes to whitening and moisturizing.
• Complex Salicylic Acid: A water-soluble BHA that helps exfoliate, has antiseptic properties, and can dissolve clogged pores.
• Light Cream Maker™: Acts as an emulsifier and thickener.
• AnyGel™ (Dehydroxanthan Gum): Provides gelling and texture.
• Mild Preserved Eco™: A gentle preservative-free option.

Mixing Instructions and pH:

The instruction to adjust the pH to 3-3.5 before adding Light Cream Maker™ is unusual, as pH adjustment is typically done at the end. Also, Light Cream Maker™ works across a wide pH range (2.5-11), but adjusting pH before emulsification might impact the final texture or stability. Glycolic Acid is most effective at this low pH, which is good for exfoliation.

However, Mild Preserved Eco™ is recommended for use in formulas with a pH range of 4-9. Using it at pH 3-3.5 might reduce its effectiveness as a preservative. You may need to consider a preservative suitable for a lower pH range or adjust the formulation pH if possible, although a higher pH would reduce the efficacy of Glycolic Acid.

Overall, both formulations utilize effective ingredients. Pay close attention to the specific mixing instructions and pH requirements for each ingredient to ensure optimal performance and stability of the final products.