Review of Gel-Cream Formula for Sensitive, Combination Skin

Question

I would like to request a review of my proposed formula before production. I have combination, very sensitive skin that is dry but produces oil quickly. I also have clogged pores and wrinkles (age 35+).

I want the product to have a gel-cream texture that is fast-absorbing, non-heavy, and non-greasy. It should be free from Silicone, color, fragrance, Alcohol, parabens, or unnecessary synthetic ingredients, as these can cause allergic reactions and clog pores.

My proposed ingredients are as follows:

CeraTouch (Ceramide Complex) 2%
Cholesterol 4%
Phytosphingosine SA 0.2%
Squalane (Olive) 2%
Beta Glucan (Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract) 5%
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 5%
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine) 4%
Repair Activator™ 10%
WhiteCumin™ (Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane) 0.3%
Glycosaminoglycans Complex 3%
Pro-Cysteine 2%
Adenosine Liposome 3%
Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) 2%

Given my skin type, can I use Aloe Vera Gel Heavy as the base? (To ensure fast absorption, non-greasy feel throughout the day, and prevent oiliness).

Based on the list above, the total percentage of the 13 ingredients is 42.5%, and the remaining 57.5% is the base (Aloe Vera Gel Heavy). Is this understanding correct?

If I don't use Aloe Vera Gel Heavy as the base, but use purified water instead for the remaining percentage, what will the texture be like? Will it absorb into the skin?

Please advise if any ingredients are incompatible, unsuitable, or redundant in their efficacy, potentially making the product heavy or oily. Also, should any additional ingredients be included?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Review of your proposed formula

Thank you for providing your detailed skin concerns and proposed formula. It's great that you've selected ingredients targeting multiple issues like sensitivity, dryness, oiliness, acne, and aging.

Regarding your questions:

Using Aloe Vera Gel Heavy as the base: Aloe Vera Gel bases are generally a good choice for combination and oily skin types as they tend to be light and fast-absorbing, which aligns with your preference for a gel-cream texture that isn't heavy or sticky. Using "Heavy" might mean it has a slightly richer feel than a standard gel, but it should still be significantly lighter than a cream base.
Calculation of percentages: Yes, your calculation is correct. The total percentage of the 13 active ingredients is 42.5%, leaving 57.5% for the base.
Using purified water as the base: Using purified water alone as the base for this formula would not result in a gel-cream texture. The ingredients listed are primarily active compounds, not gelling agents or emulsifiers. You would end up with a watery solution where some ingredients might not fully dissolve or disperse. To create a stable gel-cream with water as the main component, you would need to add appropriate gelling agents, emulsifiers (to incorporate oil-soluble ingredients like Squalane and WhiteCumin), and potentially thickeners, along with a preservative system.

Review of the formula:

Your formula includes a comprehensive range of beneficial ingredients:

Barrier Repair & Hydration: Ceramide Complex, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine SA, Squalane, Beta Glucan, Glycosaminoglycans Complex. These are excellent for addressing dryness, sensitivity, and repairing the skin barrier, which is crucial for combination skin that is both dry and oily.
Anti-inflammatory & Soothing: Beta Glucan, Phytosphingosine SA, Niacinamide, Bifida Ferment Lysate. Good for sensitive and acne-prone skin.
Oil Control & Pores: Niacinamide.
Anti-aging & Wrinkles: Ceramide Complex, Cholesterol, Squalane, Beta Glucan, Niacinamide, Acetyl Glucosamine, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Glycosaminoglycans Complex, Pro-Cysteine, Adenosine Liposome, Copper Peptide. This is a very potent anti-aging blend targeting multiple pathways.
Brightening: Niacinamide, Acetyl Glucosamine, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane.

Potential Considerations:

High Active Concentration: The total concentration of active ingredients (42.5%) is very high for a cosmetic formulation, especially one aiming for a light gel-cream texture. While the ingredients are beneficial, such a high load significantly increases the likelihood that the final product will feel heavier, potentially sticky, or take longer to absorb than a typical light gel-cream, even when using a gel base. Achieving a truly light, non-greasy feel with this concentration might be challenging.
Formulation Stability: Incorporating 42.5% of various active ingredients, including oil-soluble ones (Squalane, WhiteCumin) into a pre-made gel base, requires careful formulation. The base's emulsifying and gelling capacity might be exceeded, potentially leading to instability (separation, changes in texture) or requiring additional formulation steps and ingredients (like solubilizers or co-emulsifiers) which are not listed.
Preservation: Adding a large percentage of external ingredients to a base can dilute its preservative system or introduce microbial contamination. Ensuring adequate preservation for the final mixture is essential for safety and shelf life.

Conclusion & Recommendation:

The selection of active ingredients is excellent for addressing your specific skin concerns. However, the very high total concentration of these actives (42.5%) poses a significant challenge in achieving the desired light, fast-absorbing gel-cream texture.

Using Aloe Vera Gel Heavy as the base is a reasonable starting point for a gel-cream texture compared to water, but be prepared that the final texture might still feel heavier or stickier than expected due to the high active load.
Using purified water alone is not suitable for creating this type of product; it would require a complete formulation from scratch.

It is highly recommended to make a small test batch first to evaluate the texture, absorption, feel on the skin, and stability before producing a larger quantity. You may find that the texture is heavier than you prefer. If aiming for a commercial product or if texture is paramount, you might need to reduce the total active concentration or consult with a cosmetic formulator to optimize the base and formulation process for stability and desired feel.

All the ingredients you selected appear generally compatible and suitable for your skin concerns, but the high concentration is the main factor that might work against your texture preference. No ingredients seem strictly "redundant" in terms of benefits, but their combined concentration is high. You might consider if all 13 ingredients are necessary at these percentages or if a slightly lower total active load could still provide significant benefits while improving the texture.