Review of Incomplete Formula with L-Ascorbic Acid: Stability and Recommendations

Hello, thank you for your inquiry. We have received the message from the staff.

As the staff mentioned, the formula you found online is incomplete. It is likely missing a main base component such as water or other ingredients to reach 100% or the desired total weight. Having a clear main component and total weight is essential for properly evaluating the formula and calculating the correct proportions of each ingredient, which is necessary for stability.

The ingredients you listed are as follows:

• Hyaluronic Acid (ID 79): A humectant that helps retain moisture in the skin.
• Alpha Arbutin (ID 68): A skin brightening agent that helps reduce dark spots.
• VitC (L-ascorbic acid) (ID 133): Vitamin C in the form of L-ascorbic acid is an antioxidant and helps brighten the skin. However, it has stability limitations, especially in formulas with water as a main component. It can easily degrade. Please check the details and usage limitations on the product page.
• Beeswax (ID 206): A wax that acts as a thickener or part of an emulsifier system in cream or balm type formulas.
• Twin20: An emulsifier that helps oil and water mix.
• VitE (Tocopheryl Acetate) (ID 65): Vitamin E is an antioxidant and provides moisture.
• Glycerin (ID 143): A humectant that helps draw water into the skin.
• Olive Oil (Extra Virgin Olive Oil) (ID 85): A natural oil that provides moisture and contains antioxidants.

Based on the presence of both water-soluble (Hyaluronic Acid, Alpha Arbutin, VitC, Glycerin) and oil-soluble (Beeswax, VitE, Olive Oil) ingredients, as well as an emulsifier (Twin20) and wax (Beeswax), this formula is likely intended to be an emulsion product (such as a cream or lotion), which requires a significant amount of water as a main component.

The main issues with this formula are:

1. Incomplete Formula: It is missing a main component (such as water) and the total weight, making it impossible to determine the correct proportions of other ingredients. This affects the stability and efficacy of the product.
2. Stability of VitC (L-ascorbic acid): If the formula contains water, L-ascorbic acid (ID 133) is highly unstable and will degrade quickly, losing its effectiveness.

Recommendations for this formula:

• Complete the Formula: Purified Water should be added to the formula, and the weights of all ingredients should be adjusted to total 100% to allow for calculation of each ingredient's proportion in percentage, which is standard practice in cosmetic formulation.

• Consider Changing the Form of Vitamin C: Since L-ascorbic acid is highly unstable in water-based formulas, it is recommended to consider using other, more stable forms of Vitamin C suitable for emulsion formulas, such as:

  • Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (ID 833): A water-soluble Vitamin C derivative with high stability and efficacy similar to L-ascorbic acid.
  • Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) (ID 8334): A water-soluble Vitamin C derivative with high stability, suitable for formulas requiring a relatively high pH (around 7-9).
  • Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (Perfect-C™) (ID 499): An oil-soluble Vitamin C derivative with very high stability and good skin absorption.

• Add a Preservative: Formulas containing water require a preservative system to prevent microbial growth, which can spoil the product and be harmful to the skin.

To achieve an effective and stable formula, it is recommended to adjust the formula using ingredients in percentages and select a form of Vitamin C with appropriate stability for an emulsion type formula.

If you would like to see example formulas with similar ingredients or using stable forms of Vitamin C, you can search for example formulations on the MySkinRecipes website.