Review of Proposed Acne/Whitening Formulation with Multiple Actives

Subject: Review of your proposed acne/whitening formulation

Hello,

Thank you for sharing your proposed formulation and questions. Based on the discussion provided, here is a summary of the advice and answers to your questions:

• Clogged Pores and Inflammation: Your understanding is correct. As mentioned in the discussion, if there is no clogging, inflammation is less likely to occur. Addressing clogged pores is key.
• Ingredient List and Concentration:
  • Your proposed list includes: Green Tea Extract 5%, Glucosamine 4%, Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) 5%, MSM 3%, Acetyl L-Carnitine 3%, Azelaic Acid 10%, Licorice Extract 1%, Allantoin 0.34%, Water ~68.66%. The total active ingredients are around 31%.
  • The discussion suggests that for normal skin, MSM and Acetyl L-Carnitine might not be necessary and can be removed, which would also help reduce the total concentration of active ingredients.
  • While a general guideline might be to keep actives below 25%, the suitability depends on the specific ingredients and skin tolerance. However, reducing unnecessary ingredients is a good approach.
• Dryness on Normal Skin:
  • While some ingredients target oil, the discussion noted that MSM and L-Carnitine don't necessarily dry the skin but might be unnecessary for normal skin.
  • Be mindful that strong exfoliating agents like BHA (Salicylic Acid), if used, can potentially dry out normal skin if not balanced with adequate moisturization.
• BHA vs. Azelaic Acid and Using Both:
  • Both BHA (Salicylic Acid) and Azelaic Acid can help with clogged pores. BHA is generally considered more effective for dissolving clogs but can be more irritating.
  • You are correct that Azelaic Acid also has skin brightening properties.
  • However, it is strongly advised not to use multiple strong exfoliating ingredients like BHA and Azelaic Acid together, even if you don't immediately feel irritation. Combining them can lead to over-exfoliation, damaging the skin barrier and causing significant irritation in the long run. Think of it like taking multiple strong pain relievers at once – it's not recommended and can be harmful. It's generally better to choose one primary exfoliant or use them at different times or concentrations under guidance.
• Glutathione + Vitamin C: The discussion mentioned being cautious when using Vitamin C, especially low pH formulas, as they can increase the risk of irritation when combined with other active ingredients.

It's important to introduce new formulations gradually and observe your skin's reaction. Patch testing is always recommended.