Formulation Review: Silicone-Free W/O Sunscreen BB/Cushion Foundation

Thank you for submitting your proposed formula for a silicone-free physical sunscreen BB/cushion foundation with SPF50 PA++++.

Here is a review of your formulation:

Ingredients and Their Likely Roles:

• Physical UV Filters: Zinc Oxide Neutral (8%) and Titanium Dioxide Transparent (15%) provide broad-spectrum UV protection. The total 23% is a strong base for high SPF.
• SPF/Color Booster: PMMA Booster (5%) helps enhance the performance of the UV filters and can improve color.
• Emollients: LipidSoft™ CC (15%) and Squalane (Olive) (3%) provide slip and a light skin feel, supporting the silicone-free goal.
• Texture & Oil Control Powders: BB Micro Silk™ (5%), Silk Sericite Powder (3%), AminoSilk™ (Lauroyl lysine) (3%), and WhiteMatte3™ (Boron Nitride) (3%) are included to modify texture, absorb oil, and provide a matte finish.
• W/O Emulsifier: Water-Capsule™ (Water-in-Oil Cream) (4%) is essential for forming and stabilizing the water-in-oil emulsion, contributing to water resistance.
• Water Phase & Skin Conditioners: Butylene Glycol (3%), Rhamnose (2%), Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™ (1%), Prebio-care (Skin Prebiotic) (3%), and Distilled Water (24.59%) form the internal water phase, providing hydration and skin benefits.
• Antioxidant: Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) (1%) helps protect the formula and skin.
• Preservative: Mild Preserved Eco™ (1%) ensures microbial stability.
• Color Pigment: Beige Iron Oxides EasyMix™ (0.40%) provides color.

Evaluation and Potential Considerations:

1. Silicone-Free & Water Resistance: The formula successfully utilizes a W/O system and silicone-free emollients, aligning with your goals for a silicone-free and water-resistant product.
2. SPF/PA Target: The concentration of physical filters and booster is a good starting point for SPF50 PA++++. However, achieving this claim requires proper dispersion of the UV filters and laboratory testing of the final product according to standard methods.
3. Texture and Spreadability (Key Concern): The most significant potential challenge is the very high total powder content. Summing the percentages of all powders (UV filters, booster, texture powders, pigment) results in approximately 42.4%. A powder load this high can make the texture feel heavy, dry, difficult to spread, or even pasty, potentially contradicting the goal of a "light, easy-to-spread" texture.
4. Oil Control: The selection of texture powders should provide good oil control and a matte finish.
5. Stability: High powder loads can sometimes lead to stability issues like sedimentation if not properly processed.
6. Color Coverage: 0.4% pigment might result in very sheer coverage. If more coverage is desired, the pigment level would need to be increased, further adding to the powder load challenge.

Suggested Adjustments:

• Reduce Total Powder Load: To improve texture and spreadability, consider reducing the total percentage of powders. Evaluate which texture powders are most effective for your desired feel and oil control and potentially reduce their amounts or select fewer types.
• Optimize Phase Ratios: Carefully balance the percentages of the oil phase, water phase, and powder phase to achieve better texture and stability.
• Processing: Ensure all powders, especially the UV filters and pigments, are thoroughly dispersed in the oil phase using appropriate high-shear mixing or milling equipment before emulsification. Proper dispersion is critical for SPF/PA efficacy, color uniformity, and smooth texture.
• Pigment Level: Adjust the pigment percentage based on the desired level of coverage, keeping in mind its contribution to the total powder load.

This formula has a strong foundation for a silicone-free W/O sunscreen. Focusing on optimizing the powder phase and ensuring proper dispersion will be key to achieving the desired texture and performance.