Review of Skin Whitening, Melasma, and Acne Cream Formula

Question

I want to make a skin cream for fast whitening, reducing melasma/freckles, and reducing acne. Is the following formula correct?

Formula:

Tranexamic Acid: 3%
Salicylic Acid EZ: 5%
Safe-B3: 5%
Zinc PCA: 1%
MSM: 5%
Water: 75%
Sym-White™: 0.5%
Mineral Oil: 5%
Light Cream Maker: 1.5%
Phenoxyethanol: 1%

Mixing Method:
Mix the water phase (ingredients 1-6) and stir well. Add ingredients 9 and 8, stir until a cream texture is formed. Add ingredient 7 and stir. Add ingredient 10 and stir well.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Review of your proposed skin whitening, melasma, and acne cream formula

Thank you for providing your formula. It contains several ingredients known to help with skin whitening, melasma, and acne. However, there are a few critical points to consider regarding this formulation:

Salicylic Acid Concentration (5%): The concentration of Salicylic Acid at 5% is very high for a leave-on facial cream. While Salicylic Acid is effective for acne and exfoliation, this concentration is typically used in short-contact treatments like peels or wash-off masks. Using a 5% Salicylic Acid leave-on product on the face can cause significant irritation, redness, dryness, and peeling. For a leave-on facial product, a concentration of 0.5% to 2% is generally recommended and much safer.
Total Percentage: The percentages of your ingredients add up to 102%, which indicates a calculation error. Please double-check the percentages to ensure they sum up to 100%.
Mixing Instructions: The provided mixing instructions (adding emulsifier and oil after the water phase, then adding other ingredients) are likely incorrect for creating a stable cream emulsion using a standard cream maker like "Light Cream Maker". Typically, the oil phase (including oil and emulsifier) and the water phase (including water-soluble ingredients) are heated separately and then combined with proper mixing to form an emulsion. Following your instructions may result in an unstable product that separates.

Summary:

While the formula includes beneficial active ingredients, the high concentration of Salicylic Acid makes it potentially irritating and unsafe for regular leave-on facial use. The percentage calculation needs correction, and the mixing method should follow standard cosmetic formulation practices for creating stable emulsions.

It is strongly recommended to reduce the Salicylic Acid concentration to a safer level (e.g., 0.5% - 2% for leave-on) and consult reliable cosmetic formulation guides for proper mixing procedures to ensure the stability and safety of your product.