Review of Whitening and Moisturizing Lotion Formula

Asked by: iladabaifern On: January 09, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like to request a review of my whitening and moisturizing lotion formula. The formula is as follows:

  • Fractionated Coconut Oil: 30%
  • Beeswax: 5%
  • Ethyl Ascorbic Acid: 5%
  • Vitamin E: 2%
  • Glycerin: 8%
  • Emulsifier: Polysorbate 20
  • Water/Base: q.s. to 100%

Please provide feedback on this formula, including its stability, texture, and effectiveness for whitening and moisturizing.

Answer

Subject: Review of Whitening and Moisturizing Lotion Formula

Thank you for submitting your lotion formula for review. We appreciate you sharing your recipe and the feedback you received from the staff.

The staff's assessment is correct. Your formula has a few key points to consider:

  1. Emulsification Issue: The most critical point is the use of Polysorbate 20 as the primary emulsifier. While Polysorbate 20 is an emulsifier, it is typically used as a co-emulsifier or for solubilizing small amounts of oil in water. It is not suitable as the main emulsifier for creating a stable lotion with a significant oil phase (like the 30% Fractionated Coconut Oil and 5% Beeswax in your formula). Without a proper "cream maker" or primary emulsifier system, your formula will likely separate into oil and water phases.
  2. Texture: As the staff mentioned, the combination of 30% Fractionated Coconut Oil and 5% Beeswax will result in a relatively heavy texture, which is great for very dry skin but might feel greasy or sticky on normal or slightly dry skin. You might consider adjusting the oil percentage or using lighter oils if a less heavy feel is desired, depending on your skin type.
  3. Active Ingredients: The active ingredients you chose, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C derivative) at 5% and Vitamin E at 2%, are excellent choices for skin whitening, antioxidant protection, and conditioning, aligning well with your goal of radiant skin. Glycerin at 8% is also a good humectant for moisturizing.
  4. Missing Components: Your formula is missing a suitable primary emulsifier (cream maker) and a preservative system. A preservative is essential for any product containing a water phase to prevent microbial growth and ensure safety and shelf life. You would also need to consider pH adjustment for stability and skin compatibility, especially with Ethyl Ascorbic Acid.

Recommendations:

To make this formula stable and effective, you would need to:

  • Replace or supplement Polysorbate 20 with a suitable primary O/W (oil-in-water) or W/O (water-in-oil) emulsifier system designed for lotions/creams with your desired oil load.
  • Add a broad-spectrum preservative system.
  • Adjust the pH to be skin-compatible and optimal for the stability of Ethyl Ascorbic Acid.
  • Consider adjusting the oil phase percentage or type based on your desired texture and skin type.

In summary, while your choice of active ingredients is good for whitening and moisturizing, the base formula requires significant modification, particularly regarding emulsification and preservation, to create a stable and usable lotion.