Reviewing Acne Treatment Formula with High Concentration Acids

Subject: Reviewing your acne treatment formula

Thank you for sharing your formula for acne treatment. It includes several excellent ingredients known for their benefits for acne-prone skin.

Ingredients like Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Zinc PCA, Salicylic Acid (BHA), Lactic Acid (AHA), Licorice Extract, Allantoin, and Copper Peptide are all beneficial for addressing various aspects of acne, such as inflammation, bacterial growth, exfoliation, and skin healing.

However, I have a few points to consider regarding the concentrations:

• Salicylic Acid (BHA) 8% and Lactic Acid (AHA) 8%: This combination at such high percentages is very potent and likely too strong for a leave-on, at-home product. Using 8% BHA and 8% AHA together can cause significant irritation, dryness, peeling, redness, and increase sun sensitivity. For home use, typical concentrations are much lower (e.g., BHA 0.5-2%, AHA 5-8% when used alone). I strongly recommend reducing these concentrations significantly. Perhaps focus on BHA (Salicylic Acid) at a lower percentage (1-2%) as it's more effective for penetrating pores, or use a lower percentage of both (e.g., BHA 1%, AHA 5%).
• Propolymer 2%: This is a high concentration for a thickener. It will likely result in a very thick gel texture which might feel heavy or sticky and could potentially affect the absorption of other ingredients. You might want to reduce this to around 0.5% - 1% for a more pleasant texture.
• Vitamin B12 2%: This concentration is quite high and unusual for topical use. While not necessarily harmful, typical concentrations are much lower (e.g., <0.1%). It might contribute to the product's color. You could likely reduce this without losing significant benefits.

Recommendations:

1. Reduce Acids: Lower the Salicylic Acid and Lactic Acid concentrations significantly to safer levels for home use (e.g., BHA 1-2%, AHA 5% or less, or choose one as the primary exfoliant).
2. Adjust Thickener: Reduce Propolymer to 0.5-1% for better texture.
3. Consider B12: Reduce Vitamin B12 concentration.
4. Consider pH: Ensure the final product's pH is appropriate for the acids to be effective and safe (typically pH 3-4 for AHAs/BHAs).
5. Add Hydration/Soothing: You could consider adding more hydrating ingredients (like Glycerin, Panthenol, Hyaluronic Acid) or soothing extracts to help support the skin barrier and minimize irritation, especially if using acids.
6. Patch Test: Always perform a patch test before applying the product to your entire face.
7. Sun Protection: Use sunscreen daily, as exfoliating acids increase sun sensitivity.

Overall, the selection of active ingredients is good, but the high concentrations of the exfoliants need careful adjustment for safety and efficacy in a home-use product.