Aftershave Formulation Review

Thank you for sharing your proposed aftershave formula. It's a good starting point for a soothing aftershave. Let's review the ingredients and your questions.

Your base of Distilled Water (80%) and Witch Hazel (10%) is suitable for a refreshing aftershave. Witch Hazel is known for its astringent properties, which can help tighten pores after shaving.

Adding Coco Wash (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) at 3% is within its typical usage range. This ingredient is a gentle surfactant that can add a soft feel to the skin and help solubilize small amounts of oils or fragrances.

Regarding your questions about fragrance and color percentages:

• Fragrance: The usage rate for fragrance in cosmetic products typically ranges from 0.1% to 1%, though it can go up to 2% depending on the specific fragrance and desired intensity. You should add fragrance at the end of the formulation process, usually after cooling.
• Color (Brilliant Blue CI42090): To achieve a clear blue liquid, you should use a water-soluble form of Brilliant Blue (CI42090). The amount needed is very small, typically just a trace amount. Add it gradually until you achieve the desired shade of blue. Using a UV filter in the formula is recommended to help prevent the color from fading over time.

You also asked about adding Propylene Glycol for moisture and if it would cause problems or affect clarity.

• Propylene Glycol: Adding Propylene Glycol is a good idea for an aftershave. It acts as a humectant, helping the skin retain moisture, which is beneficial after shaving. It is also a solvent and can help improve the clarity and stability of the formula, especially when incorporating ingredients like fragrance. It is water-soluble and typically used at 1-20% in cosmetics. Adding it at 5-10% would enhance the moisturizing properties without making the product cloudy.

Potential Issues and Important Considerations:

1. Fragrance Solubility: While Coco Wash can help, 3% might not be sufficient to fully solubilize all types of fragrance oils, potentially leading to a cloudy product. If clarity is crucial and you use a fragrance oil, you might need to increase the Coco Wash percentage or use a dedicated fragrance solubilizer.
2. Preservation: Your proposed formula lacks a preservative. Any water-based product must contain a broad-spectrum preservative system to prevent bacterial, yeast, and mold growth. This is critical for product safety and shelf life. You need to add a suitable preservative at the manufacturer's recommended usage rate.

In summary:

Your proposed formula is a good base. To achieve a clear blue, moisturizing aftershave, consider these adjustments:

• Include Propylene Glycol (e.g., 5-10%) for added moisture and clarity.
• Use a water-soluble Brilliant Blue (CI42090) at a trace amount.
• Add fragrance at 0.1-1% (adjust as needed). Ensure it is properly solubilized for clarity.
• Crucially, add a suitable broad-spectrum preservative at the recommended concentration.
• Adjust the Distilled Water percentage to make the total 100%.

By incorporating these points, you can create a safe, effective, clear blue, and moisturizing aftershave.