Formulation Review: Lotion/Serum/Essence

Thank you for sharing your formulation! It contains many beneficial ingredients for skincare. I've reviewed the ingredients you listed based on the information available.

Here are some points to consider:

• Ingredients Not Found: I couldn't find specific product information for Tomato Extract, Mangosteen Extract, Natural HG, Black Tomato, and Hi-Clera in our database. Therefore, I cannot comment on their recommended usage rates or compatibility. You may need to adjust the formula or find alternatives if you cannot get details on these specific ingredients.
• Centella Extract (Madecassoside 90%): You've included this at 5%. Based on the product information for Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%), the recommended usage rate is 0.1-2%, with 1% being generally recommended. Using 5% is significantly higher than recommended and may not provide additional benefits or could potentially affect the formulation's stability or skin feel. It is recommended to use it within the suggested range, perhaps 1-2%.
• Emulsifier and Stability: You are using Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate (3%) and Pentaerythrityl Distearate (assuming it is Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate) (1%) as emulsifiers/thickeners.
  • Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate is an emulsifier that typically requires heating in the oil phase (70-80°C) and needs a suitable thickener, such as Cetearyl Alcohol or Cetyl Alcohol, to create a stable emulsion.
  • Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate is primarily an oil used for feel and gloss, not a primary thickener for emulsion stability.
  • Your formula is mostly water-based with a small oil phase (Squalane and Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate). The current emulsifier system, especially without a primary thickener like Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, or a fatty alcohol, is unlikely to create a stable lotion, serum, or essence texture.
  • The total percentage of your listed ingredients is 100%, which means there is no room to add a necessary thickener.
  • To achieve a stable emulsion with the desired texture, you will likely need to incorporate a primary thickener/stabilizer and adjust the percentages of other ingredients, potentially reducing the water phase, to make room for it.

General Formulation Considerations:

• Mixing Procedure: Several ingredients (Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Aloe Vera Extract, Cucumber Extract, FruitPeel™, Pumpkin Renew™, Centella Extract) are sensitive to heat and should be added to the formula after the emulsion has formed and cooled down (typically below 40°C). Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate and Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate need to be heated in the oil phase. Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 20%) needs to be pre-dissolved in a glycol before adding. A careful mixing procedure is essential.
• pH Adjustment: The optimal pH range for the stability and efficacy of many of your ingredients (Safe-B3™, Aloe Vera Extract, Centella Extract, Cucumber Extract, FruitPeel™, Pumpkin Renew™, Licorice Extract) is generally between 4.5 and 7.0. You will likely need to check and adjust the final pH of your product to be within this range after all ingredients are mixed.
• Storage: Several of the extracts you are using (Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Aloe Vera Extract, Cucumber Extract, FruitPeel™, Pumpkin Renew™, Centella Extract, Licorice Extract) require refrigeration for long-term storage. The final product may also require refrigeration to maintain stability and efficacy, especially given the high percentage of natural extracts.
• Preservation: While Mild Preserved Eco™ is included, with a complex formula containing many natural extracts, it is highly recommended to perform a challenge test on your final product to ensure the preservative system is effective against microbial growth.

Overall, while your ingredient selection is good for skin benefits, the current formulation structure, particularly the emulsifier/thickener system and the high concentration of Centella Extract, needs adjustment to create a stable and effective product.