Revised Formula for Anti-Aging & Moisturizing Night Cream

Asked by: aeehanwol_oo On: September 03, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing an anti-aging and moisturizing night cream for normal skin that tends to be dry in an air-conditioned environment. I want a formula that is effective but not sticky or heavy.

Based on the following ingredients, could you provide guidance on optimizing the formula, particularly regarding ingredient concentrations and texture?

  • DMAE Liquid
  • N-Acetyl-D glucosamine
  • Pep Coll
  • Vitamin B5
  • Vitamin B3
  • Adenosine Complex
  • Light Cream Maker
  • Allantoin
  • Double Hya Liquid
  • Phenoxyethanol

Specifically, is adding Natural Betaine necessary or beneficial for this formula, and how would it affect the texture?

Answer

Revised Formula for Anti-Aging and Moisturizing Night Cream

Based on your goal to create an anti-aging and moisturizing night cream for normal skin that tends to be dry in an air-conditioned environment, and considering the feedback provided, here is an evaluation of your proposed formula and a recommended revision.

Your initial formula is a good starting point, incorporating several effective anti-aging and moisturizing ingredients. The discussion highlights some key adjustments to optimize the formula for texture and efficacy.

Here are the recommended changes based on the feedback:

  • Vitamin B5 (Panthenol): The concentration of Vitamin B5 should be reduced from 3% to 0.5-1%. While beneficial for moisture and skin barrier support, using it at 3% can make the cream feel sticky or heavy, which you want to avoid for a comfortable night cream, especially for normal skin.
  • Light Cream Maker: To achieve the desired cream texture and counteract the thinning effect that ingredients like DMAE can have, the percentage of Light Cream Maker should be increased from 1% to 2-3%. This will help ensure the cream has a stable and pleasant consistency.
  • Allantoin: The concentration of Allantoin can be reduced from 0.5% to 0.2%. Allantoin is effective at lower concentrations for its soothing and anti-irritant properties, and 0.2% is generally sufficient.
  • Double Hya Liquid vs. Glycerin: Keeping Double Hya Liquid is recommended over replacing it with Glycerin. Double Hya Liquid, containing both standard and nano-sized hyaluronic acid molecules, provides excellent hydration to both the surface and deeper layers of the skin and is less likely to feel sticky compared to Glycerin at higher concentrations.

Regarding the addition of Natural Betaine to help dissolve Allantoin, while Betaine can improve Allantoin's solubility, it is not strictly necessary at the recommended Allantoin concentration of 0.2%. Adding enough Betaine to significantly impact Allantoin dissolution might make the formula feel heavier, which goes against your goal of a cream that doesn't feel dry but also isn't overly heavy. At 0.2%, Allantoin should incorporate sufficiently into the water phase.

Here is the revised formula incorporating these recommendations:

  • Water: Adjust percentage to reach 100% total
  • DMAE Liquid: 4%
  • N-Acetyl-D glucosamine: 4%
  • Pep Coll: 3%
  • Vitamin B5: 0.5-1%
  • Vitamin B3: 2%
  • Adenosine Complex: 1.5%
  • Light Cream Maker: 2-3%
  • Allantoin: 0.2%
  • Double Hya Liquid: 0.1%
  • Phenoxyethanol: 1%

This revised formula maintains the key anti-aging and moisturizing ingredients while adjusting the percentages for better texture and feel, suitable for a night cream for normal skin in an air-conditioned environment.