Revised Gel Formula for Acne, Melasma, Dark Spots, and Brightening

Question

Please provide a recommended gel formula for treating acne, melasma, dark spots, and for skin brightening, suitable for all skin types needing moisture. The formula should include the following ingredients and percentages, along with detailed mixing instructions:

Azelaic Acid (Liqiuid azelaic): 5%
Double Hyaluron Liquid: 1%
Allantoin: 0.2%
Vitamin B3: 5%
N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine: 4%
Alpha Arbutin: 2%
Phenoxyethanol SA: 0.8%
PE-1 Aqua: 3% (helps carry ingredients to absorb into the skin better)
Pro Polymer: 1% (creates a cream-gel texture, with the physical appearance of a cream but the light feel of a gel)
Distilled water: Balance

Mixing Instructions:

Combine all ingredients except PE-1 Aqua and Pro Polymer.
Mix or stir until the mixture becomes clear.
Add Pro Polymer and mix or stir until a smooth gel texture is achieved (must mix or stir sufficiently to ensure no clumps form).
Once the gel is smooth enough, add PE-1 Aqua and mix or stir until fully combined.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Review of Serum Formula and Recommended Gel Formula

Based on your questions and the conversation with the staff, here is a summary of the feedback on your first serum formula and the recommended revised formula for a gel targeting acne, melasma, dark spots, and brightening.

First Serum Formula Feedback

Your initial serum formula consisted of:

Hyaluronic Acid 1%
Allantoin 0.5%
Vitamin B3/Niacinamide (Safe-B3) 3%
Phenoxyethanol SA 0.3%
Distilled water 95.2%

You experienced a slight stinging sensation with this formula.

The staff provided the following feedback:

Allantoin at 0.5% might not fully dissolve in the amount of water used; 0.2% is generally sufficient.
Hyaluronic Acid at 1% is a high concentration, especially if your skin is not severely dry. A concentration of up to 0.5% combined with other moisturizers is often recommended.
The staff indicated that the ingredients in this formula should not typically cause stinging. Based on the details you provided (water type, calculation method, skin type), a definitive cause for the stinging was not identified in the conversation.

Recommended Gel Formula

The staff recommended a revised formula for a gel aimed at addressing acne, melasma, dark/red spots, and brightening, suitable for all skin types needing moisture. The recommended formula is:

Azelaic Acid (Liquid azelaic): 5% (Adjusted from 10%)
Double Hyaluron Liquid: 1% (Recommended liquid form)
Allantoin: 0.2%
Vitamin B3: 5% (Adjusted from 2%)
N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine: 4%
Alpha Arbutin: 2% (Adjusted from 1%)
Phenoxyethanol SA: 0.8%
PE-1 Aqua: 3% (Added for penetration enhancement)
Pro Polymer: 1% (Added for gel texture)
Distilled water: Balance

This formula combines active ingredients like Azelaic Acid, Vitamin B3, N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine, and Alpha Arbutin to target acne, dark spots, and improve skin brightness. Double Hyaluron Liquid provides hydration, and Allantoin helps soothe the skin. PE-1 Aqua is included to enhance the absorption of the active ingredients, and Pro Polymer creates the desired gel texture.

Mixing Instructions

The staff provided the following steps for mixing the recommended gel formula:

Combine all ingredients except PE-1 Aqua and Pro Polymer.
Mix until the mixture becomes clear.
Add Pro Polymer and mix or stir until a smooth gel texture is achieved, ensuring there are no clumps.
Once the gel is smooth, add PE-1 Aqua and mix or stir until fully combined.

If you have any further questions or need more assistance, feel free to ask!