Revised Serum Formula for Whitening and Wrinkle Reduction

Question

I have created a serum formula aimed at whitening and reducing wrinkles. I would like to ask the expert to review the formula and provide guidance on the mixing procedure.

Here is my initial formula:

Cyclomethicone: 10%
Silicone Gel: 5%
Water: 52.4%
Safe-B3™: 4%
Orange Oil (Fragrance): 1%
Phenoxyethanol: 0.5%
L-ascorbic acid: 10%
Luxury Cream Maker™: 3%
Disodium EDTA: 0.1%
Isododecane: 10%
Grape Seed Oil: 2%
SiliSolve™: 1%
Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20): 1%

I am particularly concerned about the stability and compatibility of the ingredients, especially L-ascorbic acid in a water-based formula. Are the emulsifiers SiliSolve™ and Polysorbate 20 necessary in this formula? What is the correct procedure to mix these ingredients to achieve a stable and effective serum?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Revised Serum Formula

Here is a suggested revised formula, replacing the unstable L-ascorbic acid with a stable derivative and removing the unnecessary emulsifiers:

Cyclomethicone: 10%
Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear, Super Silky): 5%
Water: 59.4%
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 4%
Orange Oil (Fragrance): 1% (Note: Essential oils like Orange Oil can be irritating at higher concentrations. Consider using a cosmetic-grade fragrance oil or reducing the percentage if you experience sensitivity.)
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure): 0.5%
Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate): 5%
Luxury Cream Maker™: 3%
Disodium EDTA: 0.1%
Isododecane (Germany): 10%
NaturalProfile™ Grape Seed Oil (Cold-Pressed): 2%

Total: 100%

Benefits of Key Ingredients in the Revised Formula

This revised formula is designed to help with whitening and reducing wrinkles through the action of key ingredients:

Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): Helps reduce wrinkles, improve skin elasticity, reduce hyperpigmentation, and strengthen the skin barrier.
Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate): A stable Vitamin C derivative that provides antioxidant protection, brightens skin tone, reduces UV damage, and stimulates collagen synthesis.
NaturalProfile™ Grape Seed Oil (Cold-Pressed): Contains antioxidants that protect collagen and fight free radical damage, contributing to anti-wrinkle benefits.

Mixing Procedure

Here is a general procedure for making the serum:

In a beaker, combine the Water, Disodium EDTA, Safe-B3™, and Phenoxyethanol. Mix until all powders are fully dissolved.
Add the Luxury Cream Maker™ to the water mixture from step 1. Mix well until the mixture starts to thicken and is uniform. Gentle heating (around 50-60°C) can help.
In a separate beaker, combine the Cyclomethicone, Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear, Super Silky), Orange Oil, Isododecane (Germany), NaturalProfile™ Grape Seed Oil (Cold-Pressed), and Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate). Mix until the oil/silicone phase is uniform.
Slowly add the oil/silicone phase from step 3 to the water phase from step 2 while continuously mixing until a smooth, uniform serum is formed.
Check the pH of the final serum (ideally 5.0-5.5 for Perfect-C™ efficacy). Adjust if necessary.
Transfer the serum into a clean and sterilized container.