Revised Serum Formula Review: Compatibility, Commercial Production, and Non-Sticky Texture

Hello,

Thank you for sharing the revised formula and mixing steps. The team has reviewed it.

Mixing Procedure:
The detailed mixing procedure you provided, divided into 4 phases (A, B, C, D), is a valid approach and can be followed. However, the simplified method the staff suggested earlier, which involves mixing water with Reshape Gel first, then gradually adding all other ingredients (except Phospholipid, which is added last) and blending, might be simpler and faster. Both methods can work effectively.

Formula Review (Revised formula based on mixing steps A, B, C, D):

1. Are the ingredients compatible? Should any be added/removed?

   • The ingredients in this formula are generally compatible, and Triethanolamine has been correctly removed as per the previous advice.
   • The total concentration of active ingredients in this formula is approximately 15.5%, which is within the suitable range (not exceeding 20-30% as previously advised). This helps ensure the product texture is not too heavy or sticky.
   • The selected ingredients are diverse and address the goals of skin brightening (Yeast Radiance, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tranexamic Acid, 4MSK, MSH White Absorb, Activated Resorcinol), reducing dark spots (Whitening group), pore tightening (Carnitine), and providing hydration/soothing (Panthenol, Creatine, Hyaluronic Acid Nano/Standard, Bisabolol, Flaxseed Oil, Phospholipid). This is a formula with good potential.
   • There is no immediate need to add or remove core ingredients at this point. This formula has a concentration of actives that should provide good results.

2. For commercial production, should other substances be added, like Protec OX?

   • For commercial products, long-term stability and safety are crucial.
   • Preservative: The formula already includes Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus) at 0.5%, which is a commonly used and effective broad-spectrum preservative. This amount is sufficient for preventing microbial growth in typical cosmetic products.
   • Antioxidant: Adding a small amount of an antioxidant, such as Protec OX (Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate) or Tocopherol (Vitamin E) in a small amount (e.g., 0.05-0.1%), will help prevent the degradation of certain ingredients in the formula that may be sensitive to oxidation (like Flaxseed Oil or some whitening agents). This will help extend the product's shelf life and maintain the efficacy of the active ingredients. Protec OX is a good antioxidant for the oil phase.
   • pH Adjustment: Although the formula's pH might be naturally suitable based on the ingredients, for commercial production, it's essential to measure and adjust the pH to be within the range suitable for the skin (generally around 4.5-6.5) and optimal for the stability of each active ingredient. This ensures maximum product efficacy and minimizes the potential for irritation.

3. How to adjust for a non-sticky cream texture?

   • This revised formula is likely to have a much lighter and less sticky texture than the first attempt. This is because the total active ingredient concentration is lower, and it uses Reshape Gel™ which is a gel-forming agent with Memory Gel properties, allowing for easy absorption without leaving a sticky residue.
   • Using both Nano and Standard Hyaluronic Acid in appropriate amounts (0.1% and 0.2%) will provide hydration without causing excessive stickiness.
   • Phospholipid also helps with ingredient delivery and contributes to a pleasant texture.
   • If you still find it slightly sticky, you could consider slightly reducing the amount of Flaxseed Oil or using a lighter oil instead. However, overall, this formula is not expected to have significant issues with stickiness.

In summary, this revised formula is well-balanced and should be able to achieve the desired results. For commercial production, consider adding an antioxidant for long-term product stability.