Revised Serum Formulation for Acne, Pores, and Wrinkles: pH, Texture, and Efficacy Inquiry

ถามโดย: rungnapapum เมื่อ: September 02, 2015 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

Regarding my skin concerns (oily, dehydrated, clogged pores, large pores, acne scars, wrinkles), and following the previous suggestion to use a separate product for clogged pores (like a Toner or Gel with Salicylic Acid EZ™), I have revised my serum formulation aiming for a non-sticky gel texture.

Here is my proposed revised formula:

  • Water
  • Hyaluronic Nano 0.5%
  • Aloe Vera Extract (10:1 FullAssay™) 3%
  • Vitamin B3, Niacinamide (Safe-B3™) 5%
  • Soy Extract (Isoflavones / Genistein) 5%
  • Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5) 5%
  • Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A) 0.5%
  • Pro Polymer 0.5%
  • Preservative (Phenoxyethanol 1% or NaturePreserve™ 1.25%)
  • Remaining %: Water
  • Optional: Witch Hazel (Distilled - Alcohol Free)

I have the following questions about this revised formula:

  1. I noticed the raw material pH of Panthenol is high (9.0-10.5). Will adding Panthenol at 5% cause a pH issue with other ingredients like Niacinamide (optimal pH 4.0-7.0) and Aloe Vera Extract (optimal pH 3.5-7)? Will it make them ineffective? Is there a substitute for Panthenol that would avoid this pH consideration?
  2. Which preservative is recommended: Phenoxyethanol 1% or NaturePreserve™ 1.25%?
  3. Can I add Witch Hazel (Distilled - Alcohol Free)? If so, should I use it at 100% as a standalone product or incorporate it into the serum formulation? What is a suitable concentration if added to the serum?
  4. With Hyaluronic Nano (0.5%) and Pro Polymer (0.5%), will the texture be a light, non-sticky gel as desired?
  5. How long will it take to see results for my skin concerns (clogged pores, large pores, acne scars, wrinkles, hydration, redness)?

คำตอบ

Subject: Re: Hyaluronic Acid Serum Formulation Consultation

Hello,

Thank you for providing your revised serum formulation based on your skin concerns (oily, dehydrated, clogged pores, large pores, acne scars, wrinkles) and the previous feedback. Your goal is a non-sticky gel serum.

Let's review your proposed formula and questions:

Revised Formula Ingredients:

  • Water
  • Hyaluronic Nano 0.5%
  • Aloe Vera Extract (10:1 FullAssay™) 3%
  • Vitamin B3, Niacinamide (Safe-B3™) 5%
  • Soy Extract (Isoflavones / Genistein) 5%
  • Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5) 5%
  • Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A) 0.5%
  • Pro Polymer 0.5%
  • Preservative (Phenoxyethanol 1% or NaturePreserve™ 1.25%)
  • Remaining %: Water
  • Optional: Witch Hazel (Distilled - Alcohol Free)

Ingredient Compatibility and pH:
The ingredients you've chosen are generally beneficial for your skin concerns. However, you've correctly identified a potential pH issue with Panthenol. While Panthenol itself is stable over a wide pH range, its raw material pH is high (9.0-10.5). The optimal pH range for Niacinamide (4.0-7.0) and Aloe Vera Extract (3.5-7) is lower.
It's not that Panthenol at its raw material pH makes other ingredients ineffective, but rather that adding Panthenol might raise the final pH of your serum. To ensure the efficacy and stability of Niacinamide and Aloe Vera, and to minimize potential irritation (Niacinamide can convert to Niacin at high pH), the final pH of your serum should be adjusted to be within the 4.0-7.0 range, ideally between 5.0-6.0. You can use a small amount of an acid solution (like Lactic Acid or Citric Acid solution) to lower the pH after all ingredients are mixed. Panthenol will still provide its benefits at this lower pH. There isn't a direct substitute for Panthenol with the same properties that would avoid pH considerations entirely; managing the final formula pH is key.

Preservative Recommendation:
Both Phenoxyethanol (1%) and NaturePreserve™ (1.25%) are common preservative options.

  • Phenoxyethanol: A widely used, effective, broad-spectrum synthetic preservative. Generally well-tolerated, but some individuals may experience irritation.
  • NaturePreserve™: Likely a blend of natural antimicrobials. Often preferred by those seeking "natural" formulations. Its efficacy and potential for irritation depend on the specific blend, which we don't have detailed information on.
    Both should work in this formula. The choice depends on your preference regarding synthetic vs. natural ingredients and any known sensitivities. Phenoxyethanol is a reliable standard choice.

Witch Hazel Usage:
You can definitely incorporate Witch Hazel (Distilled - Alcohol Free) into your serum. Using it at 100% as a standalone product might be too astringent for your dehydrated oily skin. It's better to include it in your serum formulation. You can replace a portion of the water with Witch Hazel extract. A concentration of 5-20% is common in serums/toners and can provide soothing and pore-tightening benefits without being overly drying. Adjust the water percentage down accordingly.

Expected Texture:
With Hyaluronic Nano (0.5%) and Pro Polymer (0.5%), your serum should have a light, pleasant gel texture. Pro Polymer is an effective gelling agent that helps create a non-sticky feel, which aligns with your preference.

Timeframe for Results:
You may start seeing some improvements in skin hydration and reduced redness/inflammation within approximately 2 weeks due to ingredients like Hyaluronic Nano, Aloe Vera, Panthenol, and Licorice. However, significant improvement in concerns like clogged pores, large pores, acne scars, and wrinkles (addressed by Niacinamide, Soy Extract, etc.) typically requires consistent use over a longer period, usually several weeks to months. Please have realistic expectations for these more complex issues.

Additional Recommendation:
As the staff previously mentioned, given your primary concern with clogged pores, you might consider using a separate product specifically designed to address this, such as a toner or gel containing Salicylic Acid EZ™ (Water-soluble Salicylic Acid). This can be used alongside your serum. The proposed serum formula is excellent for hydration, soothing, and anti-aging, complementing a targeted acne treatment.

Your revised formula looks promising for addressing multiple concerns, provided the final pH is adjusted correctly.

We hope this detailed feedback is helpful!

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble)
Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble)
เครื่องสำอาง
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
เครื่องสำอาง
Aloe Vera Extract (extraction ratio 10:1 FullAssay™)
Aloe Vera Extract (extraction ratio 10:1 FullAssay™)
เครื่องสำอาง
Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule, 1M Daltons)
Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule, 1M Daltons)
เครื่องสำอาง
Panthenol (Vitamin B5, DL-Panthenol, Powder)
Panthenol (Vitamin B5, DL-Panthenol, Powder)
เครื่องสำอาง
Salicylic Acid (BHA, Pharma Grade)
Salicylic Acid (BHA, Pharma Grade)
เครื่องสำอาง
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
เครื่องสำอาง
Witch Hazel (Distillate - Alcohol Free, Paraben Free)
Witch Hazel (Distillate - Alcohol Free, Paraben Free)
เครื่องสำอาง
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
เครื่องสำอาง
Soy Extract (Isoflavones / Genistein)
Soy Extract (Isoflavones / Genistein)
เครื่องสำอาง
NaturePreserve™ Ultra (Gluconolactone & Sodium Benzoate)
NaturePreserve™ Ultra (Gluconolactone & Sodium Benzoate)
เครื่องสำอาง