Revised Hair Serum Formula and Method

Thank you for sharing your hair serum formula idea! It's a great starting point with beneficial ingredients like Vitamin B5 and hydrolyzed proteins. Based on your goal for dry, frizzy, and damaged hair, and aiming for a stable, effective, and pleasant-to-use serum, here are some suggestions for revising your formula and method:

Analysis of Your Original Formula and Suggested Changes

Your initial formula has a very high oil phase relative to the water phase, which is unusual for a typical Leave-in Conditioner or serum (usually Oil-in-Water emulsions with a high water content). This can lead to instability (separation), a heavy/greasy feel, and potentially sticky texture from the high protein concentration in a small amount of water.

To create a stable and effective serum, we need to adjust the ratios and add a few key ingredient types:

1. Increase Water Phase: Make water the primary ingredient (60-70%+).
2. Reduce Oil & Protein: Lower the percentage of oils (Avocado Oil, Argan Oil) to 3-10% total and proteins (Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein) to 1-5% each (total protein 5-10%).
3. Add a Proper Emulsifier: Laureth-23 is a surfactant but not a primary emulsifier for creating stable O/W emulsions with significant oil content. You need an emulsifier designed for this purpose. Examples include Ceteareth-25, or natural options like LeciCream™ or PhosphoMax™. SoftGel 305 is also an option that provides both emulsifying and conditioning properties.
4. Add a Thickener: This helps create the desired serum or light lotion texture and improves emulsion stability. Examples include Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC), Carbomer U21, or Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer.
5. Add a Conditioning Agent: While oils and proteins condition, cationic conditioning agents significantly improve slip, reduce static, and smooth the hair cuticle, which is excellent for dry/frizzy hair. Examples include Cetrimonium Chloride or Behentrimonium Chloride (though specific examples weren't found in the recent search, the type is important). SoftGel 305 (Polyquaternium-37) is a conditioning polymer that also acts as an emulsifier.
6. Add a Preservative: Crucially, any formula containing water MUST have a broad-spectrum preservative to prevent microbial growth and ensure safety and shelf life. Examples include Mild Preserved Eco™, PE 1090 Preservative, or Coco-Preserve™.
7. Adjust pH: The final product should have a pH suitable for hair (around 4.5-5.5) for optimal cuticle smoothing and stability.

Sample Formula Structure (Example Percentages)

This is a guideline to show ingredient categories and typical ranges, not an exact formula. You will need to experiment to find the texture you like.

• Phase A (Water Phase):
  • Purified Water: 60-70%
  • Panthenol (Vitamin B5): 1-3%
  • Hair Wheat Protein (Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein): 1-3%
  • Hydrolyzed Soy Protein: 1-3% (If available - wasn't found in recent search)
  • Thickener (Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC), Carbomer U21, or Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer): 0.1-0.5%
• Phase B (Oil Phase):
  • Avocado Oil (Refined): 3-7%
  • Argan Oil (Organic - Virgin - Deodorized): 1-3%
  • Emulsifier (Ceteareth-25, LeciCream™, PhosphoMax™, or SoftGel 305): 3-7% (Adjust based on oil % and emulsifier type)
  • Laureth-23: 1-3% (Optional, can help with feel)
• Phase C (Cool Down Phase - Add below 40°C):
  • Cationic Conditioning Agent (e.g., Cetrimonium Chloride solution, or use SoftGel 305 in Phase B): 1-5%
  • Preservative (Mild Preserved Eco™, PE 1090 Preservative, Coco-Preserve™, etc.): 0.5-1.5% (Check supplier usage rate)
  • Fragrance/Essential Oil: 0.1-0.5% (Optional)
  • pH Adjuster (e.g., Citric Acid Solution): As needed to reach pH 4.5-5.5

Revised Mixing Method (for O/W Emulsion)

1. Weigh ingredients for Phase A and Phase B into separate heat-resistant containers.
2. Heat both Phase A and Phase B in a water bath (or controlled heat) to around 70-75°C until all solids in the oil phase are melted.
3. Slowly pour Phase B (Oil Phase) into Phase A (Water Phase) while mixing continuously with a stick blender or high-shear mixer for 3-5 minutes to create a stable emulsion.
4. Switch to a slower mixer (like a spatula or regular stirrer) and continue stirring occasionally while the emulsion cools down to below 40°C.
5. Add ingredients from Phase C (Preservative, Fragrance, etc.) and mix well.
6. Check the pH using a pH meter or strips and adjust to 4.5-5.5 using a few drops of Citric Acid solution if needed. Mix thoroughly after adjusting pH.
7. Transfer to a clean container.

Making emulsions requires practice, especially getting the right texture and stability. Start with small batches and adjust percentages as needed. Good luck with your formulation!