Rich Cream Maker Forming Beads in Cream and Alternative Thickeners

Regarding your questions about using Rich Cream Maker and the potential for Cetyl Alcohol/Cetearyl Alcohol to clog pores:

1. Why are there small beads in the cream when using Rich Cream Maker?

Based on your description and the staff's advice, the beads likely occur because the Rich Cream Maker, especially at higher concentrations (like 6%), was not fully melted or properly dispersed in the oil phase before emulsifying with the water phase. Although Rich Cream Maker can be used in cold process at low concentrations, using a gentle warming step (around 50°C as suggested by staff) or even higher heat (60-70°C when combining with ingredients like Cetyl/Cetearyl Alcohol) for the oil phase helps ensure the emulsifier and any solid fatty components are fully liquid and can properly emulsify when combined with the water phase. The image you shared, showing the Rich Cream Maker turning into a gel-like clump in the oil phase before adding water, indicates it wasn't fully dissolved or dispersed at that stage. Applying sufficient heat to the oil phase containing the Rich Cream Maker and any other fatty components (like Cetyl Alcohol) until everything is uniformly liquid, and then maintaining appropriate temperature while mixing with the heated water phase, followed by sufficient mixing/shearing until cool, is crucial for a smooth, bead-free cream.

2. What percentage of Cetyl Alcohol/Cetearyl Alcohol is considered "high" and increases the risk of clogged pores?

There is no universally defined percentage that is strictly considered "high" for causing clogged pores, as it depends on the overall formula and individual skin type. However, as mentioned by the staff and another user, using Cetyl Alcohol or Cetearyl Alcohol in higher amounts can increase the risk of clogged pores, particularly for individuals prone to acne. Typical usage in general creams is around 2-3%, which is often considered acceptable for most people. If your goal is a strictly non-comedogenic product, you might need to use lower amounts or consider alternatives.

3. Are there alternative options for achieving a thick, heavy, non-greasy, fast-absorbing night cream texture without clogging pores?

Yes, there are alternative approaches to achieve this texture profile while potentially reducing the risk of clogged pores associated with higher levels of fatty alcohols like Cetyl Alcohol or Cetearyl Alcohol:

• Consider using Luxury Cream Maker (Product ID 645) as your primary emulsifier. This emulsifier is often formulated to create creams with a rich, luxurious feel that is less likely to feel heavy or greasy and tends to absorb well. It might help you achieve the desired thickness and feel with a different composition than relying heavily on added fatty alcohols or waxes.
• Optimize your oil phase composition. The type and amount of oils and butters in your formula play a significant role in the final feel. Replacing heavier, slow-absorbing oils/butters with lighter, faster-absorbing emollients can help the cream feel less greasy and absorb better, even if it is thick.
• Explore other types of thickeners. While not explicitly detailed in the conversation, other categories of ingredients like certain synthetic polymers or silicone derivatives are sometimes used to modify texture, provide thickening, and offer a smooth, non-greasy skin feel, often with a lower likelihood of clogging pores compared to some traditional waxes or high levels of fatty alcohols.

For your specific goal, trying Luxury Cream Maker (Product ID 645) is a recommended alternative emulsifier that is designed to provide a desirable texture for rich yet non-greasy creams. You would need to follow its recommended usage guidelines and adjust your formula accordingly.

In summary: To avoid beads with Rich Cream Maker, ensure proper melting/dispersion with heat. To achieve a thick, non-greasy cream while minimizing pore clogging risk, consider using Luxury Cream Maker (Product ID 645) and carefully select your oil phase ingredients.