Role of Carriers (Glycols) in Skin Absorption of Water-Soluble Actives

Asked by: hydronium_ion3 On: June 05, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Do water-soluble active ingredients such as Alpha Arbutin, Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), N-Acetylglucosamine, and Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) require a carrier like Ethoxydiglycol for effective skin absorption?

What is the primary role of glycols like Ethoxydiglycol in formulations containing these ingredients, considering factors like skin feel and solubility?

Answer

Skin Absorption of Water-Soluble Ingredients

Regarding your question about whether water-soluble ingredients like Alpha Arbutin, Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), N-Acetylglucosamine, and Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) require a carrier such as Ethoxydiglycol for skin absorption:

Generally, water-soluble active ingredients can be absorbed by the skin even without a specific carrier. The skin's absorption process is complex and influenced by many factors beyond just the presence of a carrier.

While not strictly necessary for absorption, ingredients like glycols (including Ethoxydiglycol) are frequently used in formulations for other important reasons:

  • Improving Skin Feel: Glycols can enhance the texture and feel of a product on the skin, making it more pleasant to apply and encouraging proper spreading and contact time, which indirectly helps the active ingredients work.
  • Acting as Solvents: Some active ingredients, even if generally considered water-soluble, may require a co-solvent like a glycol to fully dissolve or remain stable in a complex formulation.

For ingredients like Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid), while it is water-soluble, its stability in water can be an issue depending on the form and the formula's pH. Other stable water-soluble Vitamin C derivatives like Ascorbyl Glucoside or Ethyl Ascorbic Acid are also available. The overall formulation, including pH and other ingredients, plays a significant role in the effectiveness and absorption of Vitamin C, rather than solely relying on a carrier.

In summary, while carriers like Ethoxydiglycol can serve multiple beneficial roles in a cosmetic formulation, they are not always essential for the skin absorption of inherently water-soluble active ingredients. The decision to include them often relates more to optimizing the product's texture, stability, and the solubility of various components within the formula.