Roll-on Formulation Adjustment for Faster Drying

Asked by: petepakdee On: June 04, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Could you please review the ingredients of my roll-on formula and advise which ingredients should be adjusted or added to make it dry faster? Thank you. The formula is:

  1. Almond Oil 15%
  2. Zinc Ricinoleate 70%
  3. Zinc PCA 1%
  4. Glycerin 5%
  5. Satin Cream Maker 3%
  6. Mild Preserved Eco 3%
  7. Essential Oil 3%

Answer

Roll-on Formulation Review for Faster Drying

Your current formula includes several ingredients at percentages that are likely contributing to a slow drying time and potentially a heavy or greasy feel.

Here are the key points:

  • Zinc Ricinoleate (70%): This is the most significant factor. Zinc Ricinoleate is an excellent odor absorber, but it is typically used at much lower concentrations, usually between 0.5% and 3%. Using it at 70% will create a very thick, paste-like product that will not absorb or dry quickly on the skin. This is the primary ingredient you need to adjust.
  • NaturalProfile™ Sweet Almond Oil (Cold-Pressed) (15%): While a good emollient, 15% oil is quite high for a roll-on intended to dry quickly. Oils inherently slow down the drying process compared to water-based or volatile ingredients.
  • Glycerin (USP/Food Grade) (5%): Glycerin is a humectant that attracts moisture, which is beneficial for skin hydration but will also slow down the drying time.
  • Satin Cream Maker™ (3%): This is an emulsifier and thickener. The type and amount of thickener affect the texture and how quickly the product feels dry.
  • Mild Preserved Eco (Ethylhexylglycerin + Caprylyl Glycol) (3%) & Essential Oil (3%): These are less likely to be the primary cause of slow drying compared to the high levels of Zinc Ricinoleate, oil, and glycerin.

Suggestions for Adjustment

To make your roll-on dry faster, you need to significantly adjust the percentages of the slow-drying components:

  1. Reduce Zinc Ricinoleate: Drastically lower the percentage of Zinc Ricinoleate. Aim for a concentration between 1% and 3%. This is the most crucial change.
  2. Reduce or Change the Oil Phase: Lower the percentage of NaturalProfile™ Sweet Almond Oil. You could reduce it to a much lower level (e.g., 1-5%) or consider replacing some or all of it with a lighter, faster-absorbing emollient ester (like Coco-Caprylate/Caprate) or a volatile silicone if your formulation allows.
  3. Reduce Glycerin: Decrease the percentage of Glycerin to minimize its effect on drying time.
  4. Consider Drying Agents: To enhance the dry feel and speed up drying, you could incorporate a small percentage of an ingredient like Tapioca Starch, Silica, or Kaolin Clay into your formula. These can help absorb moisture.
  5. Adjust Thickener: Once you've adjusted the other components, you may need to re-evaluate the percentage of Satin Cream Maker™ to achieve the desired consistency for a roll-on that spreads easily but dries quickly.

In summary, the extremely high percentage of Zinc Ricinoleate is the main issue. Reducing it to its typical usage level, along with decreasing the oil and glycerin, will dramatically improve the drying speed of your roll-on.