Scar Reduction Gel Formula

Based on your interest in creating a scar reduction formula similar to commercial products containing siloxanes and Vitamin C Ester, here is a proposed formulation incorporating your desired ingredients and addressing your questions.

The commercial product you mentioned likely uses a combination of cyclic and polymeric silicones for their film-forming and occlusive properties, which are beneficial for hydrating and improving the appearance of raised scars. Vitamin C Ester is included for its antioxidant and potential skin-brightening benefits.

Here is a suggested formula:

• Phase A (Oil/Silicone Phase):
  • Vitamin C Ester (Ascorbyl Palmitate): 8%
  • Cyclopentasiloxane (or Cyclomethicone Replacer like LipidSoft™ Cyclo or LipidSoft™ D5): 15%
  • Dimethicone (e.g., Dimethicone (Light/50)): 15%
  • Olive Oil (Extra Virgin): 10%
  • Tamanu Oil (Virgin, Madagascar, Cold-Pressed): 10%
• Phase B (Water Phase):
  • Pentylene Glycol (Low-Odor): 5%
  • Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
  • Distilled Water: 35.8%
• Phase C (Cool Down):
  • Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus): 1%

Total: 100%

Explanation of Ingredients:

• Vitamin C Ester: An oil-soluble form of Vitamin C with antioxidant properties.
• Cyclopentasiloxane & Dimethicone: Silicones that form a breathable barrier on the skin, helping to hydrate the scar tissue and improve its texture and appearance. Cyclopentasiloxane is volatile and provides a silky feel, while Dimethicone is polymeric and contributes to the film-forming and occlusive properties.
• Olive Oil & Tamanu Oil: Natural oils known for their moisturizing and skin-conditioning properties. Tamanu oil is traditionally used for skin healing.
• Pentylene Glycol: A humectant and solvent that helps hydrate the skin and can aid in dissolving ingredients. We suggest 5% to contribute to the texture and hydration.
• Disodium EDTA: A chelating agent that helps improve the stability of the formula by binding to metal ions.
• Phenoxyethanol SA: A broad-spectrum preservative to prevent microbial growth.
• Distilled Water: The base of the water phase. The percentage is adjusted to make the total formula 100%.

Mixing Instructions:

1. Prepare Phase B: In a clean container, combine Distilled Water, Pentylene Glycol, and Disodium EDTA. Stir until Disodium EDTA is fully dissolved. Gentle heating may be used if needed, then cool the mixture.
2. Prepare Phase A: In a separate clean container, combine Vitamin C Ester, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Olive Oil, and Tamanu Oil. Mix until all ingredients are uniformly dispersed.
3. Combine Phases: Slowly add Phase B (Water Phase) to Phase A (Oil/Silicone Phase) while mixing continuously with high shear (using a homogenizer or high-speed mixer) to create an emulsion. Mix until the mixture is smooth and uniform.
4. Add Phase C: Once the emulsion has formed and cooled down (if heated), add Phenoxyethanol SA and mix thoroughly until evenly distributed.
5. Final Check: Check the texture and appearance. Adjust mixing speed or time if necessary to achieve the desired consistency. Package the product.

Regarding your question about Glycerin, Glycerin (vegetable) is heat stable and can be heated in the water phase if you choose to include it in a formulation.

This formula provides a starting point. You may need to adjust the percentages of the silicone phase (Cyclopentasiloxane and Dimethicone) and the water phase to achieve the exact texture you desire, similar to the commercial product you described.