Scent of custom formulation with multiple active ingredients

Asked by: peteempa On: February 04, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Based on the following list of ingredients used in a custom formulation, the final product does not only smell of Rose Water. Could you please identify which ingredients might be contributing to the other scents?

  • Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (aka. Pitera)
  • Perfect-C (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate)
  • Yeast Resurface
  • Yeast Radiance™
  • Glycosaminoglycans Complex
  • Phospholipid
  • Marine Plankton (Lifting, Tightening)
  • Snow Algae
  • Ectoine (Ectoin)
  • Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation)
  • Tocotrienols
  • Satin Cream Maker™
  • Plankton GP4G™
  • Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
  • Madecassoside-80 (Centella Asiatica Extract)
  • Rose Water (Rosa Damascena)
  • Repair Activator™
  • Prebio-care (Skin Prebiotic)
  • Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI)
  • Xanthan Gum
  • WaterLube™

Answer

Subject: Scent of the formulation - The product does not only smell of Rose Water.

Thank you for your inquiry regarding the scent of your custom formulation. You are correct that the final product's scent is influenced by all the ingredients, not just the Rose Water.

Based on the list of ingredients you provided, several components are known to have their own characteristic odors that can affect the overall fragrance of the product and may be interfering with the pure Rose Water scent. The most common culprits for noticeable odors in cosmetic formulations, especially those that can be described as "off" or interfering with a floral scent like rose, are often fermented ingredients and certain extracts.

Ingredients in your formula that are likely contributing to the scent beyond Rose Water include:

  • Fermented Ingredients: Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera), Yeast Resurface (Yeast Extract), Yeast Radiance™, and Repair Activator™ (Bifida Ferment Lysate) are all fermentation-derived ingredients. These often have a distinct, sometimes yeasty or slightly sour, odor that can be quite prominent.
  • Certain Extracts: Ume Extract (Japanese apricot extract) and Madecassoside-80 (Centella Asiatica Extract) are natural extracts that can carry the natural scent of their source material, which might be herbal, fruity, or earthy and could blend with or mask the rose scent. Marine Plankton and Snow Algae extracts might also have subtle natural odors.
  • Other Ingredients: While generally less strong than fermented ingredients or some extracts, other components like Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (Perfect-C), Tocotrienols, and Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) can have faint characteristic smells depending on their purity and concentration.

Therefore, the scent you are noticing that is not purely Rose Water is most likely due to the combined natural odors of these other active ingredients, particularly the fermented ones. This is a normal characteristic when formulating with such ingredients without adding additional masking fragrances.