Understanding Thickeners for Hair Pomade

Thickeners are essential in hair pomades to create the desired texture, provide viscosity, and contribute to hold and style. Different thickeners offer varying textures and performance characteristics.

Here's a look at the thickeners you mentioned:

• Carbomer: Carbomers like Carbomer 940, Carbomer 980, Carbomer Ultrez 30, CarboQuick, and Carbomer Dead-Skin are synthetic polymers used to create clear water-based gels. They provide good viscosity and contribute to hold. Some types require neutralization with an alkali (like Triethanolamine) to form a gel, while others like Carbomer Ultrez 30 and CarboQuick are easier to use and offer better tolerance to electrolytes. However, some Carbomers can feel slightly greasy or sticky on the skin, which might transfer to the hair. They can provide a wet look depending on the overall formulation.
• Xanthan Gum: Xanthan Gum is a natural gum that also creates clear water-based gels. It is generally more tolerant to electrolytes and a wider pH range compared to some Carbomers. Different grades (like the clear gel type with smooth texture or normal texture) can influence the final feel, with the smooth texture type being less stringy. Xanthan Gum provides viscosity and some film-forming properties that can help with hold and contribute to a wet look.
• Reshape Gel™: This is a unique gel maker described as a "memory-gel". It creates a highly viscous gel that is not sticky and spreads easily. Its "memory" property means the gel can be disturbed (like styling hair) and will gradually return to its smooth state, which is excellent for hair styling products requiring hold and restyling capability. It can tolerate electrolytes and a wide pH range. It can also incorporate a small amount of oil (up to 10%) which can help achieve a wet look, although the gel will become opaque. Reshape Gel™ seems particularly well-suited for creating styling products with hold and a non-sticky feel.
• Pro Polymer™: Pro Polymer is a gel maker that creates a polymeric structure. While it provides viscosity and can suspend particles (like in scrubs), its description notes that it gives a slightly sticky feeling initially but dries to a thin coating. As you experienced, this drying property means it absorbs into the skin/hair rather than staying on the surface to provide a lasting wet look and strong external hold like a traditional pomade. Therefore, it is generally not the best choice for a pomade aiming for a prominent wet look and strong, pliable hold.

Choosing the Right Thickener for a Wet-Look Pomade

For a men's hair pomade with a neat, wet look and good hold, Reshape Gel™ is likely the most suitable primary thickener due to its unique memory and styling properties, non-sticky feel, and ability to provide hold while allowing for restyling.

Xanthan Gum (especially the clear gel, smooth texture type) could also serve as a good base thickener, providing viscosity and some hold with a clear, non-stretchy texture that contributes to the wet look.

Certain Carbomer types, particularly those with good clarity and electrolyte tolerance like Carbomer Ultrez 30 or the pre-dispersed CarboQuick, could also be used as a base for a clear gel pomade, offering viscosity and hold. However, you might need to manage the potential for a slightly greasy feel depending on the specific type and concentration.

Pro Polymer is generally not recommended for this specific application because it tends to absorb and dry down, which is counter to the desired wet look and pliable hold of a pomade.

Formulation Considerations

To create a successful wet-look pomade with hold, you will need more than just a thickener. You would typically combine the chosen thickener with:

• Styling Polymers: Ingredients specifically designed to provide strong hold and film formation on the hair.
• Humectants: Such as Glycerin or Propylene Glycol, to attract and retain moisture, helping to maintain the wet appearance.
• Shine Agents: Water-soluble oils or esters can be added (if compatible with the thickener) to enhance the wet look and add shine.
• Preservative: Essential for any water-based product.
• Water: The main base.

By selecting a suitable thickener like Reshape Gel™ or a clear Xanthan Gum/Carbomer and combining it with appropriate styling polymers and shine-enhancing ingredients, you can formulate a pomade that provides the desired neat, wet look and hold for men's hair.