Semi-Matte Liquid Lipstick Formulation: Adding Nourishing Ingredients and Natural Preservatives

Asked by: chalisasky On: June 14, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

How can I formulate a semi-matte, long-wear liquid lipstick, ideally with organic/natural ingredients? Given that a fully organic formula for this type of product is challenging, how can I incorporate nourishing ingredients and natural preservatives into a suitable base?

I am considering a base formula similar to the example provided:

Base Formula Example:

  • Warp Cream Maker 25%
  • Cyclomethicone 25%
  • Isododecane 25%
  • Polyethylene Wax 2.5%
  • Silicone Film (Long-Wear, Hard, Isododecane Base) 22.5%

Mixing Instructions:

  1. Heat ingredients 1-4 to 70-80°C and mix until combined.
  2. Let cool to below 50°C, then add ingredient 5 and mix.
  3. Add color (like ReadyMix™ oil-based pigments) at approximately 65% base : 35% color ratio and mix.

Answer

Semi-Matte Liquid Lipstick Formula Focusing on Nourishing and Natural Preservatives

Based on the previous discussion, creating a liquid lipstick with a very high percentage of organic ingredients while maintaining the desired semi-matte finish and long-wear properties is challenging because the base formula typically requires synthetic components like silicones and specific film formers.

However, we can certainly incorporate moisturizing and nourishing ingredients, use natural preservatives, and select suitable colors to enhance the formula.

Here are some ingredients that can help achieve your goals, based on the available information:

Moisturizing and Nourishing Ingredients

To add moisturizing and nourishing benefits to your liquid lipstick base, consider incorporating ingredients like:

  • HyaOil™ (Oil-Dispersed Hyaluronic Acid): This ingredient provides long-lasting moisture, helps plump the lips, and aids in repair. It's dispersed in Castor Oil and is suitable for oil-based formulas. You can add it to the oil phase.
  • LipX®-Baby (Amino Acids For Lip Care): Containing a blend of amino acids, this ingredient is designed for lip care in oil-based formulations, offering moisturizing benefits. Add it to the oil portion, avoiding heat above 40°C.
  • Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate: This ester is useful in lip formulas for improving texture, flexibility, preventing cracking, and helping with pigment dispersion. It also provides a long-lasting coating effect. It's mixed in the oil phase.

Natural Preservatives

For natural preservation, you have a few options:

  • PaeoniaPreserve™ (Natural Preservative): Derived from Paeonia root, this liquid preservative is effective against microbial growth. It can be used alone or with other preservatives. Add it in the final step, avoiding heat above 60°C.
  • NaturePreserve™ Ultra (Gluconolactone & Sodium Benzoate): A 100% natural powder preservative effective against bacteria, fungi, and yeast. It works best in a pH range of 3-6 and is heat tolerant. Mix it in the water phase (if your formula has one, or disperse in the oil phase if compatible). Do not use with Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid).
  • NaturePreserve™ LB2: This natural origin liquid preservative is effective against bacteria and fungi, particularly at lower pH values (2.0-6.5). Avoid heat exceeding 50°C and dissolve it in the water portion (if applicable).

Remember that regardless of the preservative used, a challenge test is crucial to ensure the formula is adequately protected against microbial growth.

Colors

For coloring your liquid lipstick, ReadyMix™ pigments are recommended as they are pre-dispersed and easy to mix into oil or silicone bases without needing extensive grinding or homogenization. Examples include ReadyMix™ Iron Oxides Red (Cyclopentasiloxane Based) and ReadyMix™ FD&C Yellow No.5 Lake (Oil Based). The amount used will depend on the desired color intensity.

Formulation Considerations

A typical semi-matte liquid lipstick base involves heating oil-soluble components (like waxes and oils) and then incorporating film formers and volatile silicones as the mixture cools. Moisturizing oils and esters (like Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate) can be included in the initial oil phase. Heat-sensitive nourishing ingredients (like LipX®-Baby) and natural preservatives (like PaeoniaPreserve™ or NaturePreserve™ LB2 if adding to a cooling phase) should be added at lower temperatures as specified in their usage guidelines. ReadyMix™ colors can be added and mixed into the base.

While achieving 40-60% organic content in a stable, semi-matte liquid lipstick is difficult, incorporating the suggested moisturizing, nourishing, and natural preservative ingredients can enhance the formula's benefits while using a suitable base for the desired finish and wear.