Serum Formula Adjustment for Melasma, Freckles, and Dark Spots with Silicone

Question

I am trying to formulate a serum for melasma, freckles, and dark spots using the following ingredients: Tranexamic Acid, MSH White Absorb™, Sym-White™ (Phenylethyl Resorcinol), ODA-White Plus™, Safe-B3 (Vitamin B3 / Niacinamide), Silicone Gel, Water, and Phenoxyethanol.

In my initial attempt, I used a high percentage of Silicone Gel (around 25%), but the formula did not come together correctly. I understand that the formula needs to combine water, oil, and silicone phases.

Could you please provide guidance on how to properly formulate this serum, including suitable ingredient percentages and the correct mixing procedure?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Based on the staff's recommendations, here is an adjusted serum formula for reducing melasma, freckles, and dark spots, including the ingredients you specified:

Serum Formula for Melasma, Freckles, and Dark Spots

Silicone Gel: 10%
Water (Distilled Water): 73.5%
Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™): 3%
MSH White Absorb™: 5%
Sym-White™ (Phenylethyl Resorcinol): 0.5%
ODA-White Plus™: 2%
Safe-B3 (Vitamin B3 / Niacinamide): 5% (Helps strengthen the skin)
Phenoxyethanol (Preservative): 1%
Satin Mousse (Silky Cream Maker): 1%

Preparation Steps:

Mix the oil-soluble ingredients together: MSH White Absorb™, ODA-White Plus™, and Sym-White™ (Phenylethyl Resorcinol).
Mix the water-soluble ingredients together: Water, Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™), Safe-B3, and Phenoxyethanol.
Add Satin Mousse (1%) to the water phase and mix until a cloudy gel is formed.
Add the oil phase to the water/gel phase and mix until a cream is formed.
Finally, add Silicone Gel and mix until a smooth cream+silicone texture is achieved.

This formula incorporates the key ingredients you requested and includes necessary components like a cream maker and preservative, with adjusted percentages for optimal performance and safety as suggested by the staff.