Serum Formula Adjustment: Preventing Separation and Stickiness
Question
I need help adjusting my serum formula and checking the mixing steps. The desired properties for the serum are:
- Glowing skin
- Gentle
- Soft and moisturized skin
- Bright skin
- Clear skin
- Oil control
However, I encountered the following problems:
- Phase separation after resting for one night
- Sticky texture
Here is the formula I used:
- Hyaluronic Acid (japan) 1%
- Pro polymer (Gel Maker) 0.5%
- Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) 5%
- Glycerin 99.5% 4%
- GlucoBright 4%
- Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) 4.5kg (Assuming this was a typo and should be 4.5%)
- Aloe Vera Extract 3%
- Phenoxyethanol 1%
- Silver Glitter Mica 0.5%
- Color 0.02%
- Fragrance 0.48%
- Water 77.5%
(Total percentage appears to be >100% based on listed amounts)
The mixing steps I followed were:
- Create the gel base first.
- Add Hyaluronic Acid and Glycerin.
- Add the remaining ingredients.
- Finally, add 9+10+11+8.
Answer
Formula Adjustment and Mixing Steps for Your Serum
Based on your current formula and the issues you're experiencing with separation and stickiness, here are some suggestions to adjust your formula and mixing steps to achieve a stable, non-sticky serum with your desired skin benefits.
Your formula includes excellent ingredients for moisturizing, whitening, and oil control. The separation and stickiness are likely due to the gelling agent concentration and the total amount of humectants.
Proposed Revised Formula:
Here is a suggested adjustment to your formula. Please note that the total percentage should ideally be 100%. Assuming your Vitamin B5 is 4.5% (not 4.5kg), the original formula was slightly over 100%. The revised formula below adjusts the water percentage to compensate and increases the gelling agent while slightly reducing glycerin to help with stickiness.
- Hyaluronic Acid (japan) 1%
- Pro polymer (Gel Maker) 0.8% (Increased from 0.5% for improved stability)
- Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) 5%
- Glycerin 2% (Reduced from 4% to help minimize stickiness)
- GlucoBright 4%
- Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) 4.5%
- Aloe Vera Extract 3%
- Phenoxyethanol 1%
- Silver Glitter Mica 0.5%
- Color 0.02%
- Fragrance 0.48%
- Water q.s. to 100% (Approximately 77.2% - adjust based on precise weights of other ingredients)
Proposed Revised Mixing Steps:
The order and method of mixing are crucial for gel formulations, especially when dealing with ingredients that can affect viscosity or stability.
- Prepare the Gel Base: Disperse the Pro polymer in the water. Mix thoroughly. If your specific Pro polymer requires neutralization to thicken, slowly add your neutralizing agent (such as a pre-made NaOH solution) while mixing until the gel fully forms and is smooth and clear. Ensure the gel base is completely homogeneous before proceeding.
- Add Hyaluronic Acid and Glycerin to the gel base. Mix until fully dissolved and incorporated.
- Add Vitamin B3, GlucoBright, Vitamin B5, and Aloe Vera Extract. Mix until the mixture is uniform.
- Add Phenoxyethanol, Color, Fragrance, and Silver Glitter Mica. Mix until all components are evenly dispersed throughout the gel.
Explanation of Changes:
- Increased Pro polymer: A slightly higher concentration of the gelling agent will create a stronger and more stable gel structure. This helps prevent the formula from separating over time and assists in keeping the Mica particles evenly suspended.
- Reduced Glycerin: Glycerin is a powerful humectant, but high concentrations can contribute to a sticky feel. Slightly reducing its amount while keeping other moisturizers should help improve the skin feel without significantly compromising hydration.
- Refined Mixing Process: Ensuring the gel base is properly formed before adding other ingredients, especially those that might contain electrolytes or affect viscosity, is key to preventing destabilization and separation.
These adjustments aim to improve the stability and texture of your serum while retaining the beneficial properties of the active ingredients for glowing, soft, moisturized, bright, clear, and less oily skin.
Related Products Mentioned
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)