Serum Formula Analysis and Adjustment for Acne, Anti-Aging, and Brightening

Question

Based on the following serum formulation, please analyze and suggest adjustments (increasing/decreasing percentages, adding/removing ingredients) to optimize it for the following skin concerns: acne treatment, exfoliation, wrinkle reduction, skin brightening, skin whitening, and skin softening. The formulation is: Repair Activator 10% DMAE 5% Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR 5% Argireline 10% Japanese Cedar 1% Ectoine 2% MOIST72 3% Complex Salicylic Acid 5% Willow Bark Extract 5% Safe-B3 5% GlucoBright 4% Vitamin B5 3% DMI 3% Mild Preserved Eco 1% EDTA 0.2% PiteraEx 2% น้ำกลั่น 24% Silky Serum Base 15%

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Serum Formula Analysis

Thank you for providing your serum formulation. This formula includes many active ingredients targeting various skin concerns like anti-aging, acne, brightening, and hydration. Here's an analysis based on your goals:

Overall Goals & Ingredients:

Anti-wrinkle: Ingredients like DMAE, Matrixyl 3000 (Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR), Argireline, Safe-B3 (Niacinamide), and PiteraEx are included, which are effective for reducing wrinkles and improving skin firmness. The concentrations of DMAE (5%) and Argireline (10%) are on the higher side, which can be effective but might increase the risk of irritation for some individuals.
Acne & Exfoliation: Complex Salicylic Acid (5%) and Willow Bark Extract (5%) are included. Salicylic acid is excellent for treating acne and exfoliating the skin. However, a combined concentration of potentially up to 10% salicylic acid (assuming the complex and extract contribute significant amounts) is very high for a leave-on serum and is likely to cause significant irritation, dryness, peeling, and sensitivity, especially with regular use. Standard usage is typically 0.5-2%.
Brightening & Whitening: Safe-B3 (Niacinamide) and GlucoBright (N-Acetyl Glucosamine) are effective ingredients for improving skin tone, reducing dark spots, and brightening the complexion. Their concentrations (5% and 4% respectively) are appropriate and effective.
Skin Softening & Hydration: MOIST72 (Saccharide Isomerate) and Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) are good humectants that help hydrate the skin and improve softness. Their concentrations (3% each) are suitable.
Other Ingredients: Japanese Cedar Extract supports skin barrier function. Ectoine provides protection against environmental stressors. DMI is likely used as a penetration enhancer. Mild Preserved Eco and EDTA are standard formulation aids.

Recommendations for Adjustment:

Reduce Salicylic Acid Concentration: This is the most critical adjustment. The combined 10% from Complex Salicylic Acid and Willow Bark Extract is likely too high and will cause irritation. Strongly recommend reducing the total effective salicylic acid concentration to 1-2% for a leave-on serum. You might keep one source (e.g., Complex Salicylic Acid) at a lower percentage (e.g., 1-2%) and potentially reduce or remove the other, depending on the desired effect and tolerance.
Consider Adjusting High Concentration Actives: While DMAE (5%) and Argireline (10%) can be effective at these levels, consider slightly reducing them (e.g., DMAE to 1-3%, Argireline to 5-8%) if you experience sensitivity, as lower concentrations can still provide benefits, and you have other anti-aging ingredients.
Check Total Percentage: The listed percentages sum to 103.2%. Please re-verify the percentages to ensure they add up to 100% of the total formulation weight.
Consider pH: With a high concentration of salicylic acid, the final pH of the serum will be low. Ensure the pH is within a safe range for skin application (typically 4-6) and compatible with the stability and efficacy of other ingredients, especially peptides and Niacinamide. A low pH suitable for salicylic acid might compromise the stability or effectiveness of other ingredients and increase irritation.
Add Soothing Ingredients: Given the high potential for irritation from salicylic acid, adding soothing ingredients like Allantoin, Bisabolol, or Centella Asiatica extract could help improve skin tolerance.
Clarify "Repair Activator": Understand the specific function and recommended usage rate of "Repair Activator" at 10% to ensure it aligns with your goals and doesn't conflict with other ingredients.

Conclusion:

This formula is packed with beneficial ingredients but the very high concentration of salicylic acid is a major concern for skin tolerance. Adjusting the salicylic acid level is highly recommended. You have a good mix of ingredients for anti-aging, brightening, and hydration. By balancing the concentrations, particularly reducing the exfoliants, you can create a more effective and less irritating serum.