Serum Formula for Brightening and Anti-aging: Niacinamide and Ethyl Ascorbic Acid Incompatibility

You asked for feedback on a brightening formula for your skin type (age 25, combination, with wrinkles, dullness, and signs of aging).

Your proposed formula includes:

• Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5) 3%
• Vitamin B3, Niacinamide 4%
• Active Resveratrol 2%
• French Pine Bark Extract 25 1%
• WhiteCumin™ 2x 2%
• สารสกัดมะหาด (Oxyresveratrol) 4%
• Ethyl Ascorbic acid 3%
• Blueberry Pterostilbene 2%
• Sym-White 0.5%
• ODA-White Plus 1%
• Horse Oil 4%
• mineral oil 2%
• Alpha Bisabolol 1%
• pentylene glycol 4%
• Allantoin as appropriate
• Silky Serum Base Plus as appropriate
• Water as appropriate
• Phenoxyethanol SA 1%

Initially, the staff approved the formula with suggested adjustments for the base ingredients. However, another user correctly pointed out that Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) and Ethyl Ascorbic Acid are incompatible when mixed, as Ethyl Ascorbic Acid will degrade (turn yellow).

The staff has since corrected their advice. You must choose either Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) or Ethyl Ascorbic Acid for this formulation, as they cannot be used together.

Regarding the base ingredients, the staff recommended:

• Silky Serum Base Plus: Use at 15%
• Allantoin: Use at 0.15-0.20%

The rest of the ingredients and percentages seem appropriate based on the staff's initial assessment (excluding the B3/Ethyl Ascorbic Acid conflict).