Serum Formula for Melasma, Freckles, Brightening, Acne, and Oil Control

Asked by: luke.toow On: April 26, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I need help calculating and adjusting a serum formula for reducing melasma, freckles, brightening skin, reducing acne, and controlling oil.

My initial formula proposal is as follows:

  • Ume Extract 3%
  • MOIST24 5%
  • Water-Film™ 5%
  • Satin Cream Maker 1.5%
  • Ceramide Complex (CeraTouch) 5%
  • Phenoxyethanol SA 1%
  • SKIN-DEFENSE® V 2%
  • Distilled Water: remaining part
  • Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (Azelaic Acid) 10%
  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) 5%
  • n-acetyl glucosamine (GlucoBright™) 4%
  • Tranexamic Acid 3%
  • ODA-White Plus™ oil 3%
  • Phenoxyethanol 1 %
  • Disodium EDTA 0.2%
  • Sym-White™ (Phenylethyl Resorcinol) 0.5%
  • Perfect-C (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) 3%
  • shea butter 3%
  • Organic Virgin Coconut Oil 3%
  • Polyquaternium-51 (water lock) 2%
  • Soy Extract (Isoflavones / Genistein) 5%
  • Blueberry Pterostilbene 3%
  • Vitamin B3 4%
  • n-acetyl glucosamine 4%
  • Pro Polymer 1% (emollient)
  • PE-1 Aqua 2% (preservative)
  • Phenoxyethanol SA 1% (highly safe preservative)

I have no knowledge in this area. Which ingredients in this formula are compatible with Snail Secretion Filtrate? Which extracts should be removed, and what should be the appropriate percentages for the various ingredients? I am aiming for a white serum texture that treats melasma, freckles, acne, acne scars, and brightens the skin. Thank you very much for your help.

Answer

Subject: Refined Serum Formula for Melasma, Freckles, Brightening, Acne, and Oil Control

Thank you for providing your initial serum formula and explaining your goals. Based on the feedback you received regarding the high concentration of ingredients and suitability for oily skin, we have refined the formula to better address these points while targeting melasma, freckles, brightening, acne, and oil control.

The original formula had a very high total percentage of active ingredients, which can lead to poor texture and may not be necessary for efficacy. For oily skin, minimizing oil-based ingredients is also recommended.

Here is a proposed refined formula with adjusted percentages, aiming for a total non-water ingredient percentage within the recommended range (25-35%):

Refined Serum Formula Proposal

  • Distilled Water: q.s. to 100% (approximately 65.8%)
  • Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate: 5%
  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): 4%
  • n-acetyl glucosamine: 2%
  • Tranexamic Acid: 3%
  • Sym-White™ (Phenylethyl Resorcinol): 0.5%
  • Perfect-C (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate): 3%
  • Ceramide Complex: 2%
  • SKIN-DEFENSE® V: 2%
  • MOIST24: 2%
  • Water-Film™: 2%
  • Polyquaternium-51: 2%
  • Satin Cream Maker: 1.5%
  • Pro Polymer: 1%
  • Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
  • Phenoxyethanol SA: 1%

Total of listed ingredients (excluding water): 5 + 4 + 2 + 3 + 0.5 + 3 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 1.5 + 1 + 0.2 + 1 = 30.2%

Rationale for Changes:

  • Reduced the percentage of several active and moisturizing ingredients to bring the total non-water percentage into the recommended range for oily skin (25-35%).
  • Removed oil-based ingredients (ODA-White Plus oil, shea butter, Organic Virgin Coconut Oil) which are less suitable for oily skin and contribute to the high total percentage.
  • Simplified the preservative system by keeping Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus) at a standard effective concentration and removing the others listed in the original formula.
  • Focused on a combination of key ingredients known for targeting melasma, brightening, acne, and oil control (Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Niacinamide, Tranexamic Acid, Sym-White, Perfect-C, n-acetyl glucosamine) while retaining essential barrier support and hydration.

Adding Snail Secretion Filtrate:

If you wish to include Snail Secretion Filtrate (Product ID 255), you could add it at a concentration of around 5%. This would reduce the amount of Distilled Water needed (Water: q.s. to 100% - approximately 60.8% if adding 5% Snail Filtrate). Snail Secretion Filtrate can help with skin repair and hydration, potentially benefiting acne scars.

Serum Texture:

This formula includes Satin Cream Maker and Pro Polymer, which are formulation aids that can help achieve a serum texture. The combination of ingredients, including the emulsified Perfect-C and Ceramide Complex, can contribute to a white or opaque serum appearance.

Important Considerations for Product Development and FDA Registration:

This proposed formula is a starting point and requires further development and testing. To ensure the stability, safety, and efficacy of the final product, and to prepare for FDA registration, you will need to:

  • Conduct stability testing to ensure the product remains stable over time under various conditions.
  • Perform safety assessments.
  • Optimize the formulation process in a laboratory setting.
  • Ensure compliance with all relevant regulations for cosmetic products.

It is highly recommended to work with experienced cosmetic chemists or consultants throughout the product development and FDA registration process.

We hope this refined formula provides a helpful starting point for your serum development!