Serum Formula Review: Anti-Wrinkle, Brightening, Hydration, and Texture

ถามโดย: bazkrittin เมื่อ: November 02, 2020 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I have formulated a serum with the following ingredients and percentages:
Pep-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) 3%
Wrinkle-Lax 0.5%
Wrinkle-Fill (Acetyl L-Tyrosine) 2%
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq. Argireline) 3%
Safe-B3 2.5%
GlucoBright 4%
L-Carnitine 2%
4D Hyaluronic Acid 5%
Ethoxydiglycol 2.5%
Sodium Metabisulfite 0.5%
Disodium EDTA 0.2%
Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear) 3%
Odor-Kill ละลายน้ำ 0.5%
น้ำกลั่น ปราศจากเชื้อ 70%

My primary goal for this formula is anti-wrinkle, but I also want skin brightening, so I included Safe-B3, GlucoBright, and L-Carnitine. I'm not sure if this combination is too heavy, or if I should separate them into two formulas (one for anti-wrinkle, one for brightening). I am open to reducing the percentages if the combination is too heavy, as I want a serum texture.

Regarding the 4D Hyaluronic Acid, is 5% sufficient for skin aged 30 and above?

Finally, I'm unsure if there will be residual odors from these ingredients. I plan to add 0.5% fragrance and 2% Flora Solve™ Clear. Will this amount be too little to mask the odors?

คำตอบ

Subject: Analysis of your Anti-Wrinkle and Brightening Serum Formula

Thank you for sharing your formula. It's a comprehensive serum designed to target both wrinkles and skin brightness. Let's break down the components and address your questions:

Formula Analysis:

Your formula includes a strong combination of active ingredients:

  • Anti-Wrinkle: Pep-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5), Wrinkle-Lax, Wrinkle-Fill (Acetyl L-Tyrosine), and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) are well-known ingredients targeting different aspects of wrinkle formation and appearance. Using multiple peptides is a common strategy for enhanced anti-aging effects.
  • Brightening/Other Benefits: Safe-B3 (Niacinamide), GlucoBright (N-Acetyl Glucosamine), and L-Carnitine contribute to skin brightening, improving skin tone, and potentially offering other benefits like barrier support (Niacinamide) and antioxidant properties (L-Carnitine).
  • Hydration: 4D Hyaluronic Acid provides multi-depth hydration, essential for plump, youthful-looking skin and helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines.

Addressing Your Questions:

  1. Combination of Anti-Wrinkle and Brightening Ingredients & Serum Texture:

    • Combining anti-wrinkle and brightening ingredients is a popular approach to address multiple skin concerns in one product.
    • The total concentration of active ingredients in your formula is quite high (around 22%), which is typical for a potent serum. However, a high active load, along with ingredients like 4D Hyaluronic Acid and Silicone Gel, can influence the final texture. It might result in a serum that feels more substantial than a very thin, watery serum.
    • Whether it's "too heavy" depends on your desired sensory feel. If you aim for a very lightweight, fast-absorbing serum, this combination might feel slightly heavier.
    • Separating into two formulas (one primarily for anti-wrinkle, one for brightening) is an option if you want to maximize the concentration of specific actives in each or prefer distinct products. However, keeping them combined offers convenience for daily use.
    • If the texture is heavier than desired, you could consider slightly reducing the concentration of some actives, particularly the brightening ones if anti-wrinkle is the primary focus. However, the current concentrations of Niacinamide (2.5%) and N-Acetyl Glucosamine (4%) are within effective ranges for brightening and other benefits.
  2. 4D Hyaluronic Acid 5% for Skin Over 30:

    • 5% of 4D Hyaluronic Acid is a relatively high concentration and should provide significant hydration benefits for skin over 30. Hydration is crucial for maintaining skin elasticity and reducing the appearance of wrinkles.
    • This concentration should be effective in plumping the skin and improving its overall appearance. While higher than typical usage rates (often 0.1-2%), 5% of a multi-molecular weight blend like 4D HA can be used, though it might contribute to a slightly thicker or more substantial feel compared to lower concentrations. It should be sufficient for your hydration goals.
  3. Fragrance 0.5% and Flora Solve™ Clear 2% for Odor Masking:

    • 0.5% fragrance is a standard concentration for a facial serum and should provide a noticeable scent.
    • Flora Solve™ Clear at 2% provides a 4:1 ratio (solubilizer:fragrance), which is generally sufficient for effectively solubilizing 0.5% fragrance in a water-based formula.
    • Whether this combination fully masks potential odors from other raw materials depends on the strength and nature of those odors and the specific fragrance used. This combination is a good starting point and should help significantly. If residual odors are still noticeable, you might consider slightly increasing the fragrance level (e.g., up to 1%), which may require a small adjustment in the solubilizer amount, or choosing a fragrance specifically designed to mask challenging odors.

Summary:

Your formula is a potent multi-tasking serum. The combination of anti-wrinkle and brightening actives is effective, though the total concentration might result in a serum texture that is not extremely lightweight. The 4D Hyaluronic Acid at 5% is a good level for hydration. The fragrance and solubilizer levels are appropriate for solubilization and should help with odor masking. You don't necessarily need to separate the formulas unless you find the texture undesirable or want to significantly increase the concentration of actives in each category. If texture is a concern, a slight reduction in some active percentages could be considered, but the current levels are beneficial.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
เครื่องสำอาง
Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
เครื่องสำอาง
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
เครื่องสำอาง
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
เครื่องสำอาง
L-Carnitine (Carnitine)
L-Carnitine (Carnitine)
เครื่องสำอาง
Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine)
Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine)
เครื่องสำอาง
Wrinkle-Lax™ คลายริ้วรอย
Wrinkle-Lax™ คลายริ้วรอย
เครื่องสำอาง
4D Hyaluronic Acid
4D Hyaluronic Acid
เครื่องสำอาง