Formula Review: Oil Control, Wrinkle Reduction, Pore Minimizing, and Brightening Serum

Thank you for providing your formula for review. This formula is designed to address multiple skin concerns, including oiliness, wrinkles, pores, and brightening, using a comprehensive blend of active ingredients.

Based on the percentages provided for a total volume of 1000 ml, the breakdown is as follows:

• Distilled water: 39%
• Serum Base: 10%
• Witch Hazel: 20%
• GabaCare: 1%
• Wrinkle-Lax™: 0.5%
• Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate: 1%
• Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine): 1%
• Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite: 2%
• Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI): 3%
• Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) (1000ppm Solution): 2%
• MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine): 2%
• Sebum-Reg™ (Capryloyl Glycine): 2%
• Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5): 3%
• Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq. Argireline): 3%
• Vitamin B6 (Pyridoxine Hydrochloride): 3%
• Ethyl Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C Ethyl Ether): 3%
• Allantoin: 0.5 %
• Preservative: 1%

This formula incorporates several well-known active ingredients targeting your stated goals:

• Oil Control & Pores: Witch Hazel, Sebum-Reg™, and Vitamin B6 are included at effective concentrations for managing oiliness and the appearance of pores.
• Wrinkle Reduction: A robust combination of peptides (Pep®-Coll, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Peptide), GabaCare, and Wrinkle-Lax™ is used, targeting wrinkles through various mechanisms like muscle relaxation and collagen stimulation. Wrinkle-Fill™ also supports wrinkle improvement.
• Brightening: MSH White™ and Ethyl Ascorbic acid are included to help improve skin tone and reduce dark spots.
• Supporting Ingredients: Panthenol and Allantoin provide soothing and moisturizing benefits, while DMI acts as a penetration enhancer to help the active ingredients absorb better.

Important Considerations for this Formulation:

1. Ingredient Compatibility and pH: This is the most significant challenge. Many active ingredients have specific, sometimes conflicting, pH requirements for optimal stability and efficacy. For instance, Ethyl Ascorbic acid and Vitamin B6 prefer a more acidic environment, while Copper Peptide and GABA are more stable at slightly higher pH levels. Sebum-Reg™ even requires a specific pH adjustment during mixing (dissolve at high pH, then adjust down). Achieving a single pH that satisfies all ingredients for long-term stability and maximum efficacy will be difficult.
2. EDTA and Copper Peptide: Ethyl Ascorbic acid often benefits from the presence of Disodium EDTA for stability, but Copper Peptide's activity can be negatively impacted by EDTA. Including both in the same formula presents a direct compatibility conflict.
3. MSH White™ Solubility: MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine) is soluble in oil or alcohol and requires heat to dissolve. The Silky Serum Base is water-based and does not incorporate oils well. You will need to pre-dissolve MSH White™ in a compatible solvent (like DMI or a suitable alcohol/glycol, ensuring compatibility with the base) before adding it to the main water phase.
4. Complex Mixing Procedure: The formula requires careful attention to mixing order, temperature limits (some ingredients are heat-sensitive, while MSH White™ and Sebum-Reg™ require heat for dissolution), and pH adjustments (especially for Sebum-Reg™). A detailed manufacturing procedure is essential.
5. High Active Load: While the individual percentages are within typical usage rates, the combination of this many potent actives might increase the potential for skin sensitivity or irritation, particularly for sensitive skin types.

Recommendation:

This formula is comprehensive but presents significant formulation challenges regarding ingredient compatibility, particularly pH and the EDTA/Copper Peptide conflict, and the solubility of MSH White™. You may need to carefully re-evaluate the combination of active ingredients to ensure stability and efficacy. If proceeding with this combination, a meticulous mixing procedure addressing solubility, temperature, and pH requirements at each step is crucial. Extensive stability testing of the final product is highly recommended.