Formula Review and Recommendations

Here is a review of your cosmetic formulation and answers to your questions:

1. Can this formula be mixed? Are there any ingredients that should be removed or added to achieve clearer results and a fast-absorbing, easy-to-apply, non-greasy, lightweight skin feel?

• Compatibility: Most ingredients in your formula are compatible and water-soluble, suitable for a water-based gel or serum.
• Results: The chosen ingredients have properties that address wrinkle reduction (Pep®-Coll, Vitamin B3, GlucoBright), moisturization (Rose Petal Water, Allantoin, Panthenol, GlucoBright), and skin brightening (Vitamin B3, GlucoBright, EGCG) which align with your desired outcomes.
• Skin Feel:
  • Aristoflex AVC at 1% will create a clear gel texture.
  • DMAE at 5% and Panthenol at 3% might contribute to a sticky or tacky feel, as these are relatively high concentrations for ingredients that can cause tackiness. Reducing one or both could improve the skin feel.
  • Rose (Rosa Damascena) Extract at 5% is primarily a "Scent Extract" with no direct research supporting its efficacy on the skin. If your focus is on clear results, you might consider removing or reducing this ingredient, or replacing it with a rose extract with proven skin benefits. It can be kept if the natural scent is desired.
  • 1,2-Hexanediol at 3% acts as a humectant and penetration enhancer, which helps with skin feel and absorption.
• Recommendation for Skin Feel: If you want a faster-absorbing, non-greasy, lightweight feel, consider reducing the concentration of DMAE to the recommended 3% or lower, and/or reducing Panthenol to 1-2% to minimize potential tackiness.

2. This formula is intended to help reduce wrinkles, moisturize the skin, and brighten the complexion. Should any ingredients be added or removed?

• Your current formula already contains key ingredients targeting these three concerns:
  • Wrinkle Reduction: Pep®-Coll, DMAE, Vitamin B3, GlucoBright
  • Moisturization: Rose Petal Water, Allantoin, Panthenol, GlucoBright
  • Skin Brightening: Vitamin B3, GlucoBright, EGCG
• The concentrations of the main active ingredients like Pep®-Coll (3%), Vitamin B3 (3%), and GlucoBright (4%) are within or close to the recommended effective ranges based on product information.
• EGCG at 2% is known for antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and potential brightening effects.
• Overall, the formula is well-equipped to address your stated goals. You do not necessarily need to add or remove primary active ingredients for these specific benefits, but adjusting concentrations for skin feel (as mentioned in Q1) might be considered.

3. Does this formula require a preservative?

• Yes, a preservative is necessary. This is a water-based formula, which is highly susceptible to microbial growth.
• While some Rose Petal Water products may contain a preservative and 1,2-Hexanediol at 3% acts as a preservative booster, the amount of preservative in the base water may not be sufficient to protect the entire formula with all the added ingredients.
• A broad-spectrum preservative system that is effective against bacteria, yeast, and mold is required to ensure the safety and stability of the product.

4. Between 1,2-Hexanediol (Super-Purified, Odorless) 3% and Ethoxydiglycol 2%, which one should be used?

• 1,2-Hexanediol at 3% is a better choice for this formula.
• Reasons:
  • It offers multiple benefits: it's a solvent, a penetration enhancer, a humectant (water-binding), and a preservative booster.
  • The 3% concentration is effective for its preservative boosting and humectant properties, as well as aiding penetration.
  • The "Super-Purified, Odorless" type means it won't add an unwanted scent to your rose-based formula.
• Ethoxydiglycol is also a good solvent and carrier, but it has usage rate limitations by regulatory bodies and has a characteristic odor.
• Given the formula's composition and your desire for a pleasant texture, 1,2-Hexanediol at 3% provides a range of benefits without the drawbacks of odor or strict usage limits that Ethoxydiglycol might have in a leave-on product.

5. After mixing, should this formula be stored in the refrigerator, and should it be put in a jar or a pump bottle?

• Storage: It is recommended to store the finished product in the refrigerator. This helps maintain the quality and efficacy of certain active ingredients like Pep®-Coll and EGCG, which are recommended to be stored in the refrigerator for long-term stability. Some Rose Petal Water products also recommend refrigeration. Keeping the product cool will help extend its shelf life.
• Packaging: It should be stored in a pump bottle. A pump bottle minimizes exposure to air and prevents contamination from fingers, which is crucial for maintaining product stability and hygiene, especially for water-based formulas containing active ingredients.

6. Can this formula be mixed using manual stirring? Please provide instructions for the mixing process.

• Manual Stirring: Yes, this formula can be mixed using manual stirring. Most ingredients are water-soluble, and Aristoflex AVC is a gelling agent that can be incorporated and activated by stirring in water.
• Recommended Mixing Steps:
  1. Accurately weigh all ingredients.
  2. In a clean container, add the Rose Petal Water (your water phase).
  3. Gradually add the water-soluble ingredients one by one: Allantoin, Vitamin B3, GlucoBright, Panthenol, 1,2-Hexanediol, EGCG, Pep®-Coll, DMAE. Stir well after each addition until fully dissolved. (Allantoin may require longer stirring or gentle warming below 40°C to fully dissolve, but be cautious with heat-sensitive actives like Pep®-Coll and EGCG; add them when the mixture has cooled if warming is used).
  4. Slowly sprinkle the Aristoflex AVC powder onto the surface of the liquid while stirring continuously. Stir gently but consistently to allow the Aristoflex AVC to hydrate and form the gel. Avoid vigorous stirring that incorporates excessive air bubbles. Continue stirring until the gel is smooth and uniform.
  5. Add the Rose (Rosa Damascena) Extract (if you choose to keep it) and your chosen preservative. Stir until fully incorporated.
  6. Check and adjust the pH of the formula to the appropriate range for your active ingredients (generally between 4.0-6.5 is suitable for most).
  7. Stir again thoroughly to ensure homogeneity before packaging.

Additional Considerations:

• If you plan to sell this product, you should perform stability testing and preservative challenge testing to ensure its safety and shelf life.
• High concentrations of certain actives (like DMAE, Panthenol) can affect the final texture and feel. Testing a small batch first is recommended to achieve your desired skin feel.