Serum Formulation: Adjusting Thickness, Reducing Shine, and Mixing Procedure

ถามโดย: chakamapajorn1 เมื่อ: March 18, 2017 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I am developing a serum formulation and have several questions regarding its properties and mixing procedure.

1. Is the current formula suitable? Are there any recommended adjustments? (Note: I understand suitability depends on skin type, but are the ingredients compatible?)
2. The serum texture is quite liquid. How can I make it thicker? Can I increase the amount of `Light Cream Maker`?
3. After application, the serum is not sticky and absorbs well, but it leaves the skin very shiny. How can I reduce this shine?
4. When using `Light Cream Maker` as the emulsifier, should I add the Oil phase to the Water phase, or the Water phase to the Oil phase?

คำตอบ

Serum Formulation Analysis and Recommendations

Based on your serum formulation and questions, here is an analysis and recommendations:

1. Formula Suitability

The combination of ingredients in your formula is generally compatible. As the staff mentioned, the suitability for specific skin types depends on the user's skin characteristics. The current formula, with LipidSoft Moist, might feel heavy or shiny on oily skin but is likely suitable for normal to dry skin.

2. Adjusting Serum Thickness

The serum is likely thin because the concentration of Light Cream Maker is relatively low (1.5%). Light Cream Maker acts as both an emulsifier and a thickener. You can increase the amount of Light Cream Maker to achieve a thicker consistency. The staff recommended trying 2%. The product description for Light Cream Maker indicates a usage rate of 0.5-3% depending on the desired viscosity and oil content. Be aware that using higher concentrations requires sufficient mixing or blending to avoid a flaky texture upon application.

3. Reducing Skin Shine After Application

The shiny finish is likely due to the type of oil used, specifically LipidSoft Moist. LipidSoft Moist is an emollient that provides good moisturization but can leave a noticeable shine. To reduce this, you can replace LipidSoft Moist with a lighter emollient that has a less glossy finish. The staff recommended LipidSoft Lite (Isononyl Nonanoate), which is described as a low-gloss oil suitable for matte formulas or reducing shine. If changing the emollient is not sufficient, adding a small amount of a wax or thickener like Cetearyl Alcohol (as suggested by the staff) can help coat the oil on the skin and reduce shine. Cetearyl Alcohol should be mixed in the oil phase by heating.

4. Mixing Order for Oil and Water Phases

For formulas using Light Cream Maker, the correct mixing order is to first mix the Light Cream Maker into the oil phase. Once the oil phase is well combined, gradually add the water phase into the oil phase while continuously stirring or blending. This method is specified in the product description for Light Cream Maker and was confirmed by the staff.

5. Mixing Procedure

Since you are mixing by hand, ensure thorough and continuous stirring, especially if you increase the concentration of Light Cream Maker, to ensure proper emulsification and prevent a flaky texture. Follow the mixing order mentioned above: combine Light Cream Maker with the oil phase, then slowly add the water phase to the oil phase while stirring until a homogeneous cream/serum is formed.

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