Serum Formulation Adjustment and Ingredient Replacement

Question

I need to adjust my serum formula because some original ingredients are no longer available. I want the final serum to have a milky white, smooth, moisturizing texture with medium absorption. Could you please provide guidance on replacing the following original ingredients with the suggested new ingredients and their recommended usage percentages to achieve these desired properties?

Original Ingredients (to be replaced):

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer 1%
Phenyl Trimethicone 0.5%
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor oil 0.3%
PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone 0.3%
Dimethiconol 0.3%
Caprylyl Glycol 0.25%
Trideceth-6 0.2%
Dimethicone Crosspolymer 0.2%

Suggested New Ingredients (for replacement):

Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear)
Silicone Shine Max15™
Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20)
SiliSolve Plus™
SiliWater™
Mild Preserved Eco™
Polyethylene Glycol 4000
Silky Serum Base Plus

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Serum Formulation Adjustment

Here are recommendations for adjusting your serum formula using the proposed replacement ingredients to achieve a milky white, smooth, moisturizing serum with medium absorption:

Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear) (replacing Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer 1%): Recommended usage rate is 1-3%. You can start with 1% or slightly increase for enhanced silkiness.
Silicone Shine Max15™ (replacing Phenyl Trimethicone 0.5%): Recommended usage rate is 1-50%. For a noticeable silky feel and shine, use 1-2%.
Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20) (replacing PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor oil 0.3%): Recommended usage rate is 1-20%. To effectively solubilize/emulsify, use 1-3%.
SiliSolve Plus™ (replacing PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone 0.3%): Recommended usage rate is 0.5-3%. For effective binding and texture, use 1-2%.
SiliWater™ (replacing Dimethiconol 0.3%): Recommended usage rate is 0.5-5%. For conditioning and glide, use 1-2%.
Mild Preserved Eco™ (replacing Caprylyl Glycol 0.25%): Recommended usage rate for preservation is 0.5-2.0%, typically 1.0-1.5% for general cosmetics. Use 1.0-1.5% for effective preservation.
Polyethylene Glycol 4000 (replacing Trideceth-6 0.2%): Note that PEG 4000 is functionally different from Trideceth-6. Consider omitting it or use 0.1-0.2% with caution, as it may affect stability.
Silky Serum Base Plus (replacing Dimethicone Crosspolymer 0.2%): This is a serum base used at high percentages (15%+), not a direct replacement for 0.2% crosspolymer. To use it, formulate with 15-20% as your main base, adjusting other ingredients and water accordingly.

To achieve your desired serum texture, it is recommended to use Silky Serum Base Plus as the primary base ingredient (e.g., 15-20%) and incorporate the other ingredients at the recommended percentages, adjusting the water phase to complete the formula to 100%. This approach aligns with the intended use of Silky Serum Base Plus and will help you achieve a stable serum with the desired characteristics.

Adjusting formulations requires testing to optimize results. The percentages above are starting points.