Serum Formulation Adjustment for Texture and Benefits

Question

Based on the provided ingredients:

([url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7/7284-syn-ake-dipeptide-diaminobutyroyl-benzylamide-diacetate.html:2uarp8zq]Syn-Ake[/url:2uarp8zq] eq.) [url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7/7284-syn-ake-dipeptide-diaminobutyroyl-benzylamide-diacetate.html:2uarp8zq]Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate[/url:2uarp8zq] 4
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/404-double-hyaluron-liquid.html:2uarp8zq]Hyaluronic Acid[/url:2uarp8zq] (Small Molecule) 0.1
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/74-vitamin-b3-niacinamide-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B53.html:2uarp8zq]Safe-B3[/url:2uarp8zq]™ ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/74-vitamin-b3-niacinamide-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B53.html:2uarp8zq]Vitamin B3, Niacinamide[/url:2uarp8zq], Switzerland) 5
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/147-%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%94%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%81-kojic-acid-dipalmitate.html:2uarp8zq]Kojic Acid Dipalmitate[/url:2uarp8zq] 3
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B9%80%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%9B%E0%B9%8A%E0%B8%9B%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%94%E0%B9%8C%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/272-copper-peptide-%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9B%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C-%E0%B9%80%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9B%E0%B9%8A%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%94%E0%B9%8C-ghk-cu.html:2uarp8zq]Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu)[/url:2uarp8zq]2
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%99-silicone/171-cyclomethicone-cyclopentasiloxane-%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A5%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%99.html:2uarp8zq]Cyclopentasiloxane[/url:2uarp8zq] (Low-Odor [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%99-silicone/171-cyclomethicone-cyclopentasiloxane-%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A5%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%99.html:2uarp8zq]Cyclomethicone[/url:2uarp8zq])5
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2/1001-ethylhexylglycerin-caprylyl-glycol.html:2uarp8zq]Mild Preserved Eco™[/url:2uarp8zq] ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B5/1001-ethylhexylglycerin-caprylyl-glycol.html:2uarp8zq]Preservative-Free[/url:2uarp8zq])1
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2/838-%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B1%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%8C.html:2uarp8zq]น้ำกลั่น[/url:2uarp8zq]

If I want to create a serum with a texture similar to Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair, I have the following questions:

Which serum thickener should I use and at what percentage?
Do I need to add any other ingredients to achieve the expected results (firming, whitening, and skin restoration)?
Do I need to include an [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/58-%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%8ค%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B7%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87:2uarp8zq]anti-irritant[/url:2uarp8zq]? If so, which one should it be?

Please provide recommendations.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Regarding your serum formulation inquiry

Thank you for providing your list of ingredients for a serum formulation targeting firming, whitening, and skin restoration, similar to Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair.

Here are the answers to your questions:

Which thickening agent and percentage?
To achieve a serum texture similar to Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair, which is typically a light, slightly viscous liquid, you will need to add a thickening agent to your water-based formula. Since you are already using a small molecule Hyaluronic Acid, adding a higher molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid or a blend of different molecular weights can help increase viscosity and provide hydration. Alternatively, you could use a synthetic polymer thickener or a natural gum.
- Examples of suitable thickeners:
  - Higher Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid or Sodium Hyaluronate
  - Hydroxyethylcellulose
  - Sclerotium Gum
  - Acrylates Copolymer (e.g., Carbomer, neutralized)
  - Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (and) Isohexadecane (and) Polysorbate 80 (e.g., Sepigel 305 type)
- Suggested Percentage: The required percentage depends heavily on the specific thickener used and the desired viscosity.
  - For Hyaluronic Acid (high MW), a concentration of 0.1% to 1% is common, but even 0.1-0.3% can provide noticeable viscosity.
  - For gums or synthetic polymers, percentages are often lower, typically ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% or slightly higher depending on the product.
- Recommendation: Start with a low percentage (e.g., 0.1-0.3% for HA or 0.1-0.2% for other thickeners) and adjust based on your desired texture. It's best to test small batches.
Are additional ingredients needed for expected results?
Your current list of ingredients includes actives known for firming (Syn-Ake, Copper Peptide), whitening (Kojic Acid Dipalmitate, Niacinamide), and skin restoration (Copper Peptide, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic Acid). This is a strong foundation for a multi-functional serum targeting these concerns.
While the current list is relevant and should yield results, you could potentially enhance the formula depending on specific goals:
- For enhanced whitening: Consider adding Vitamin C derivatives (e.g., Ascorbyl Glucoside, SAP, MAP) or Alpha Arbutin.
- For enhanced antioxidant protection/restoration: Consider adding Vitamin E, Ferulic Acid, or botanical extracts known for antioxidant properties.
- For enhanced barrier support: Consider adding Ceramides, Cholesterol, or Fatty Acids.
  However, these are optional additions. The current formula already contains key ingredients for your stated goals.
Is an anti-irritant needed? If so, which one?
Given that your formula contains multiple active ingredients (Niacinamide at 5%, Kojic Acid Dipalmitate), adding an anti-irritant is highly recommended, especially if the product is intended for daily use or for individuals with sensitive skin. Actives, while beneficial, can sometimes cause mild irritation or sensitivity.
Adding an anti-irritant can help improve the skin's tolerance to the active ingredients and reduce the potential for redness or discomfort.
- Examples of suitable anti-irritants:
  - Allantoin (typical use 0.1-0.5%)
  - Bisabolol (typical use 0.1-1%)
  - Panthenol (Vitamin B5) (typical use 0.5-2%)
  - Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (typical use 0.1-0.5%)
  - Centella Asiatica extract or Madecassoside/Asiaticoside (use percentage based on product specification)
- Recommendation: Choose one or two anti-irritants that are compatible with your formula and add them at their recommended usage levels.

Please note that formulating cosmetics requires careful consideration of ingredient compatibility, stability, pH, and preservation. The percentages you listed for the ingredients (4, 0.1, 5, 3, 2, 5, 1) sum up to 20.1%, leaving about 79.9% for the base (distilled water) and the thickener/anti-irritant. Ensure the total percentage adds up to 100%.

This information is for general guidance. For manufacturing, it is essential to work with a qualified formulator who can develop a stable and effective product based on your specific requirements and perform necessary testing.