Serum Formulation Analysis: Texture, Solubility, and Room Temperature Mixing
คำถาม
I have questions about this ingredient list:
ingredient
cyclomethicone 55%
water 20%
warp cream maker 4%
alpha arbutin 2%
Niacinamide 5%
DMAE bitartrate 4%
Tocopheryl acetate 3%
Lift now 2%
double hyaluronate liquid 2%
cyanocobalamin 2%
allantoin 0.2%
phenoxyethanol 0.8%
- Does this ingredient list require mixing without a boiler? Can it be done at room temperature?
- Are the texture and solubility suitable?
- If there are suitability issues, where should adjustments be made? As I am a beginner, I would appreciate additional knowledge.
คำตอบ
Analysis of Your Serum Formulation
It's great that you are experimenting with creating your own cosmetic formulations! Let's look at the serum formula you've provided:
- Cyclomethicone 55%
- Water 20%
- Warp Cream Maker 4%
- Alpha Arbutin 2%
- Niacinamide 5%
- DMAE bitartrate 4%
- Tocopheryl acetate 3%
- Lift now 2%
- Double hyaluronate liquid 2%
- Cyanocobalamin 2%
- Allantoin 0.2%
- Phenoxyethanol 0.8%
Here is an analysis based on your questions:
1. Room Temperature Mixing
Yes, this formulation can likely be made at room temperature without needing a boiler. Most of the ingredients are either liquid at room temperature or water-soluble powders that can be dissolved in the water phase. The emulsifier, Warp Cream Maker, is designed to create a water-in-silicone/oil emulsion, and its instructions suggest blending the oil/silicone phase with the emulsifier first, then gradually adding the water phase while blending at high speed (at least 1000 rpm). As long as your Tocopheryl acetate is liquid at room temperature and blends well with Cyclomethicone, heating should not be strictly necessary, and avoiding heat is beneficial for the stability of heat-sensitive ingredients like Alpha Arbutin and Cyanocobalamin.
2. Texture and Solubility
- Solubility: The water phase contains a high concentration of water-soluble active ingredients (Alpha Arbutin, Niacinamide, DMAE bitartrate, Lift now, Double hyaluronate liquid, Cyanocobalamin, Allantoin, Phenoxyethanol). With only 20% water, the total concentration of dissolved solids is quite high (around 16%). While many of these ingredients are soluble, this high load in a small water phase could potentially lead to solubility issues or instability over time, such as precipitation or cloudiness, especially if the pH is not perfectly optimized for all ingredients simultaneously. Allantoin at 0.2% is well within its solubility limit in water at room temperature.
- Texture: The high percentage of Cyclomethicone (55%) is intended to provide a very light, dry, and silky feel, which is characteristic of silicone-based serums. The Warp Cream Maker emulsifier also contributes to a quick-absorbing, dry finish. However, the high concentrations of Tocopheryl acetate (3%) and DMAE bitartrate (4%) are likely to negatively impact the desired light texture. Tocopheryl acetate can cause stickiness at concentrations above 0.5%, and DMAE bitartrate can feel "icky" at higher percentages (above 5%, but 4% is close). The combination of these at these levels will likely result in a finished product that feels stickier or heavier than intended, despite the high Cyclomethicone content.
3. Adjustments for Improvement
To address the potential issues with solubility and texture:
- Solubility: If you encounter solubility or stability problems in the water phase, you could consider slightly increasing the water percentage or incorporating a small amount of a co-solvent like Propylene Glycol. However, this would require re-balancing the entire formula.
- Texture: The most significant improvement in texture would come from adjusting the levels of Tocopheryl acetate and DMAE bitartrate. Consider reducing Tocopheryl acetate to the recommended range of 0.1-1% (ideally below 0.5% for a non-sticky feel) and DMAE bitartrate to the recommended 3% or lower. If you need higher levels of these actives, you might need to explore different emulsifier systems or add ingredients specifically designed to mitigate stickiness in high-active formulas.
- Stability: As recommended for Warp Cream Maker, consider adding 1% Magnesium Sulfate to the water phase to help improve the stability of the emulsion and reduce the chance of separation.
Overall, while the formulation is likely possible to make at room temperature with the right equipment, the high concentration of certain actives may lead to textural challenges. Adjusting the levels of Tocopheryl acetate and DMAE bitartrate is recommended for a better feel on the skin.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Allantoin
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Cyclopentasiloxane (Low-Odor Cyclomethicone)
Warp Cream Maker™ (e.q. Nikkomulese wo)
Lift-Now™
DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid
Vitamin B12 (Cyanocobalamin 1%)