Serum Formulation: Base Selection, Perfect C for Oily Skin, and Silicone-Free Alternatives

Question

I have questions about formulating a serum with the following active ingredients: Perfect C (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) 15% Repair Activator 10% I'm confused about which base to use between Silky Serum Base (Face/Eye) and Silky Serum Base Plus (Face/Eye, Oil). The website link for both seems to point to the same product page, but the standard Silky Serum Base doesn't state it can emulsify oils, while the Plus version does. Since my formula contains an oil-soluble ingredient (Perfect C), which base should I use? I have oily skin. Will using Perfect C at 15% make my skin feel even oilier? Can you recommend alternative bases that are silicone-free, as I have oily skin and want to avoid stickiness and potential clogged pores from silicone? I am looking for options other than the standard Silky Serum Base or Silky Serum Base Plus.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Vitamin C Repair Serum Formulation Questions

Regarding your questions about the Vitamin C Repair Serum formulation:

Which Silky Serum Base to Use:
The formula should use Silky Serum Base Plus (Face/Eye, Oil). Although the link might point to the standard Silky Serum Base, the standard version cannot emulsify oils. Since your formula contains Perfect C (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate), which is oil-soluble, using Silky Serum Base Plus is necessary for better stability and to prevent separation.
Perfect C 15% on Oily Skin:
Using Perfect C at a concentration of 15% can indeed make oily skin feel heavier or oilier. For oily skin types, it is recommended to reduce the concentration of Perfect C to no more than 5%. At 5%, Perfect C is still effective, although results may take slightly longer to appear compared to 15%. You could also consider incorporating water-soluble active ingredients to avoid adding to the oiliness.
Alternative Silicone-Free Bases for Oily Skin:
If you have oily skin and prefer to avoid silicone bases due to concerns about clogged pores and stickiness, you can use alternative bases. Consider a gel texture made with Pro Polymer (Gel Maker) or a cream texture made with Light Cream Maker. Both of these ingredients can create suitable textures without needing heat during the mixing process and are recommended as silicone-free options for oily skin.