Serum Formulation: Centella, Hyaluronic Acid, Alpha Arbutin with Warp Cream Maker Texture

Question

I want to make a serum with the following ingredients:

Centella Asiatica Extract
Hyaluronic Acid
Alpha Arbutin

I am interested in creating a texture using Cyclopentasiloxane, Silicone Gel, and Warp Cream Maker™.

Could you please provide guidance on how to formulate this serum, particularly regarding the mixing procedure? Can this type of formulation be achieved by hand mixing, or is special equipment like a high-speed blender required? What are the key benefits of using these specific ingredients together in a serum?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Hello!

I understand that you are a young mother interested in making your own skin care serum, especially using Centella Asiatica extract which you have found beneficial.

Regarding the three key ingredients you are interested in: Centella Asiatica Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, and Alpha Arbutin, your understanding of their properties is correct.

Centella Asiatica Extract, such as the Madecassoside 90% or Pure-TECA™ grades, helps stimulate collagen production, reduce wrinkles, firm the skin, reduce acne scars and redness, decrease inflammation, and can help reduce dark spots caused by UV exposure. This aligns with lifting/firming and potentially brightening effects (by reducing inflammation-induced pigmentation).
Hyaluronic Acid, available in various molecular sizes like Standard Molecule or 4D Hyaluronic Acid, helps deeply hydrate the skin, making it plump and moisturized, and reduces wrinkles caused by dryness. This aligns with plumping and hydration.
Alpha Arbutin (such as the Switzerland grade) is a skin brightening agent that helps reduce dark spots, acne marks, and uneven skin tone by inhibiting melanin production. This aligns with whitening/brightening.

These three ingredients can be used together in a serum formula and are generally considered safe and beneficial for various skin types and ages, including your 20-year-old daughter.

Regarding the serum texture you are interested in, which uses Cyclopentasiloxane, Silicone Gel, and Warp Cream Maker™, this method creates a Water-in-Silicone/Oil Emulsion texture. This type of texture is lightweight, absorbs quickly, is non-sticky, and leaves a smooth, powdery feel on the skin, which matches your desire for a serum that is easily absorbed and non-sticky.

However, according to the information for Warp Cream Maker™ and the staff's reply, creating this texture requires a blender with a speed of at least 1000 rpm to properly emulsify the ingredients. Hand mixing can be difficult and may result in the texture not forming correctly or separating.

If you are a beginner and do not have a blender, you might consider making a simpler Water-based Gel Serum. This is generally easier to make by using a suitable gelling agent for water-based formulas and incorporating the Centella Asiatica extract, Hyaluronic Acid (which is water-soluble) and Alpha Arbutin into the water base. Alternatively, starting with a pre-made base like the Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base could be a very easy option.