Serum Formulation Challenges for Desired Properties

Asked by: mayschunzt On: August 06, 2022 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Is it possible to formulate a clear, honey-viscosity serum with a silky feel, fast absorption, quick evaporation, thin film, and non-pilling properties for dry skin, wrinkles, and pigmentation, using the provided list of ingredients which includes silicones, Vitamin C derivatives, peptides, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, antioxidants, glycerin, and extracts?

Answer

Serum Formulation Feedback

Hi! Thank you for sharing your proposed serum formulation and desired properties.

Your goal is a clear, honey-viscosity serum for dry skin with wrinkles and pigmentation, providing a silky feel, fast absorption, quick evaporation, a thin film, and non-pilling.

Looking at your ingredient list:

  • You have included many excellent active ingredients for dry skin, wrinkles, and melanin reduction, such as Vitamin C derivatives (Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate), peptides (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8), Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Beta-Glucan, and a wide range of antioxidants. These ingredients are well-chosen for the targeted skin concerns.
  • For the desired texture and feel (silky, fast absorption, quick evaporation, thin film), ingredients like Cyclopentasiloxane and Dimethicone are very suitable.

However, combining all these ingredients while achieving all your desired physical properties presents some formulation challenges:

  • Clarity: Your list includes both water-soluble ingredients (e.g., Sodium Hyaluronate, MAP, Peptides, Glycerin, Beta-Glucan) and oil/silicone-soluble ingredients (e.g., THDA, Tocopherols, Ubiquinone, Silicones). Mixing these typically requires creating an emulsion (like a lotion or cream), which is usually opaque or translucent, not clear. Achieving a truly clear serum with this diverse mix is very difficult, if not impossible, without complex techniques like microemulsions.
  • Viscosity vs. Absorption/Evaporation: Achieving a "honey-like" viscosity (which is quite thick for a serum) while ensuring fast absorption and quick evaporation is challenging. Silicones contribute to the latter properties but are generally low viscosity. Water-based thickeners increase viscosity but can slow down the quick feel.
  • Formulation Complexity & Stability: Combining this many active ingredients requires careful formulation to ensure they are stable, compatible, and effective over time, and that the final product doesn't pill.

In summary, while your selection of active ingredients is very good for addressing dry skin, wrinkles, and pigmentation, achieving a clear serum with a honey-like viscosity that also absorbs/evaporates quickly and doesn't pill using this exact combination is technically challenging. The proposed list is more suited for an emulsion formulation rather than a clear serum.

We can search for information on some of these ingredients or products with similar properties if you'd like.