Serum Formulation: Compatibility and Stability of 8 Ingredients

Asked by: krabifaria-tour2014 On: June 02, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I need some advice. I have 8 extract ingredients to make a facial serum. Are there any ingredients that cannot be used together, or are there any better alternatives? Please advise. The ingredients are:

  1. 4-butyl resorcinol
  2. N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine
  3. Soy Protein (Hydrolyzed Soy Protein)
  4. Gotu Kola (Centella Asiatica Extract)
  5. Orange Peel Extract
  6. Artocarpus Lakoocha (Oxyresveratrol)
  7. Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)
  8. Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)

Answer

Serum Formulation Advice: Combining 8 Ingredients

Here is advice on combining the 8 ingredients you listed for a facial serum:

  1. Activated Resorcinol (4-Butyl Resorcinol)
  2. N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine
  3. Soy Protein (Hydrolyzed Soy Protein / Tryptic-Soy™)
  4. Gotu Kola (Centella Asiatica Extract)
  5. Orange Peel Extract
  6. Artocarpus Lakoocha (Oxyresveratrol)
  7. Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)
  8. Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)

These ingredients offer various benefits for the skin, including whitening, antioxidant protection, soothing, and anti-aging properties.

Compatibility and Synergy

Many of these ingredients work well together and can enhance each other's effects:

  • N-Acetyl Glucosamine and Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): This is a well-known synergistic pair for improving skin tone and reducing dark spots.
  • Activated Resorcinol, N-Acetyl Glucosamine, and Vitamin B3: These three can be combined effectively for potent whitening action.
  • Orange Peel Extract and Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): Can be used together, particularly for addressing dark circles.
  • Gotu Kola Extract: Generally compatible and beneficial for soothing and collagen support.
  • Soy Protein: Compatible in water-based formulas.
  • Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate): A general antioxidant that helps protect the formula and skin.

Potential Issues and Formulation Considerations

There are no direct incompatibilities among the ingredients on your list in terms of forming hazardous substances. The main challenges lie in ensuring the stability and maintaining the optimal pH for all ingredients to remain effective in the final serum.

  • pH Sensitivity: Several ingredients have specific pH requirements:
    • Activated Resorcinol: pH 4.5-5.5
    • N-Acetyl Glucosamine: pH 3-7
    • Gotu Kola: pH 4-6.5
    • Orange Peel Extract: pH 3.5-7.0
    • Artocarpus Lakoocha: pH 4-6
    • Vitamin B3: pH 3-8 (best 4-7)

      A final serum pH between 4.5 and 6 would likely be suitable for most of these ingredients.
  • Stability Requirements:
    • Activated Resorcinol and Artocarpus Lakoocha are sensitive to light and oxidation. They require Disodium EDTA and antioxidants (like Protec™ OX) for stability. Artocarpus Lakoocha also benefits from Sodium Metabisulphite. Opaque packaging is essential.
    • Gotu Kola Extract and Orange Peel Extract are sensitive to heat and should be added in the cool-down phase (below 40°C for Orange Peel Extract, avoid heat for Gotu Kola).
    • Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) should not be heated for prolonged periods (max 5 minutes).

Can They Be Used Together?

Yes, these ingredients can be used together in a single serum formulation, provided you carefully manage the pH, incorporate necessary stabilizers, and follow appropriate mixing procedures to protect heat-sensitive and light-sensitive components.

Better Alternatives?

The ingredients you have selected are generally effective for skin brightening and overall skin health. Activated Resorcinol and Artocarpus Lakoocha are considered potent whitening agents. The combination of N-Acetyl Glucosamine and Vitamin B3 is also highly effective. Instead of suggesting entirely different alternatives, focusing on proper formulation techniques to maximize the effectiveness and stability of these ingredients is key.

Conclusion

Creating a stable and effective serum with all eight ingredients is possible but requires careful formulation, particularly regarding pH control, the inclusion of stabilizers and antioxidants, and mindful mixing temperatures. By addressing these factors, you can create a comprehensive serum targeting multiple skin concerns.