Serum Formulation: Compatibility, Mixing, and Odor Control

Question

Regarding the following serum formula, could you please advise on its compatibility? If compatible, what are the recommended mixing steps? Also, I read that Panthenol Extra life has an odor, which is why I chose to use water-soluble Odor-Kill. If I want to change to a different fragrance or omit it entirely, what would be appropriate? The ingredients are: 1. 4D Hyaluronic Acid 10%, 2. Mild Preserved Eco 1%, 3. Safe B3 (Switzerland) 3%, 4. Argireline 3%, 5. Matrixyl 3000 3%, 6. VersaMoist 1.5%, 7. Pro Polymer (Gel Maker) 0.5%, 8. Hydro Algae 1%, 9. Odor-Kill (water-soluble) 0.3%, 10. Distilled Water % remaining.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Feedback on Moisturizing and Anti-Aging Serum Formula

Thank you for your question. Here is feedback on your proposed formula:

1. Compatibility:
The ingredients in your formula are generally compatible in a water-based serum formulation at a skin-friendly pH (typically pH 5-6). However, it's important to note that the gel maker, Pro Polymer (Acrylate Crosspolymer), usually requires a neutralizer to thicken and form a gel. Your formula does not include a neutralizer. Without neutralization, the Pro Polymer will not properly thicken the serum.

2. Mixing Steps:
Here are the recommended mixing steps for this type of serum, assuming you add a neutralizer:

Weigh the Distilled Water.
Add the water-soluble ingredients (4D Hyaluronic Acid, Safe B3, Argireline, Matrixyl 3000, VersaMoist, Hydro Algae) to the water. Mix until fully dissolved.
Slowly disperse Pro Polymer into the water phase while mixing continuously to prevent clumping. Mix until uniformly dispersed.
Crucial Step (Requires Missing Ingredient): Add a neutralizer (such as Triethanolamine or a dilute NaOH solution) dropwise while mixing. Continue adding the neutralizer until the gel thickens to your desired consistency and the pH is in the suitable range (around 5-6).
Once the mixture has cooled down (if any heating was used, or if just at room temperature), add Mild Preserved Eco. Mix well.
Add Odor-Kill (or a water-soluble fragrance if desired). Mix well.
Check and adjust the final pH if necessary.

3. Odor-Kill:
Odor-Kill is used to mask or neutralize odors in cosmetic products. You mentioned it in relation to Panthenol, but Panthenol is not included in this formula. The ingredients in your current formula are not typically known for having strong, unpleasant odors that would necessitate Odor-Kill. Therefore, Odor-Kill is likely optional in this specific formula. You can choose to:

Keep Odor-Kill at the proposed concentration.
Replace Odor-Kill with a water-soluble cosmetic fragrance at a suitable usage rate (typically 0.1-0.5%).
Remove Odor-Kill entirely if you are comfortable with the natural scent of the formula.

Important Note: Achieving optimal stability and performance can depend on the quality of raw materials and precise manufacturing conditions. It is always recommended to perform small-scale testing before making a large batch.