Serum Formulation: Emulsifier, Mixing Procedure, and Preservation
Asked by: surayuth2516
On: September 07, 2017
Product Type:
Cosmetics
Question
I have a serum formulation and have some questions about the mixing procedure:
- Is the formula correct?
- Regarding the mixing process, should I mix the two oil-soluble ingredients first, then mix the water-soluble ingredients separately, and then gradually pour the oil mixture into the water mixture while using a mixer? Is this correct?
- Can I dissolve Disodium EDTA in Rose Water first?
- Should the preservative be added at the very last step after all water-soluble ingredients are added, or after the water and oil phases have been mixed together?
Answer
Serum Formulation Feedback and Mixing Instructions
Thank you for sharing your serum formulation and questions. Based on your formula and the feedback from the staff, here is a summary and clarification on the mixing procedure:
Staff Feedback Summary
- Missing Emulsifier: Your formula requires an emulsifier to properly combine the water and oil phases. The staff recommends adding 1.5% of either Satin Cream Maker or Light Cream Maker for a light serum texture.
- Blueberry Pterostilbene: This ingredient can darken and weigh down the serum. If you plan to use the serum during the day, the staff suggests omitting it.
- Preservative (Phenoxyethanol SA): Since you are using a high concentration of Rose Water (70%), which contains its own preservative, adding Phenoxyethanol SA is unnecessary. The staff recommends removing it.
Mixing Procedure Clarification
Regarding your specific questions about mixing:
- Formula Validity: The original formula needs adjustment as per the staff feedback (add emulsifier, remove Phenoxyethanol SA, potentially remove Blueberry Pterostilbene).
- Mixing Steps: The order of mixing depends on the emulsifier you choose:
- If using Satin Cream Maker: Combine all water-soluble ingredients. Add Satin Cream Maker and mix until a cloudy gel forms. Then, gradually add the oil-soluble ingredients (Bisabolol and MSH White Absorb TM) into the cloudy gel while mixing until a white serum is achieved.
- If using Light Cream Maker: Combine Light Cream Maker with the oil-soluble ingredients (Bisabolol and MSH White Absorb TM) and mix them thoroughly. Then, gradually add the water-soluble ingredients into the oil phase mixture, mixing continuously until fully combined.
- Disodium EDTA: Yes, you can dissolve Disodium EDTA in the Rose Water before combining it with other water-soluble ingredients.
- Preservative Addition: As noted in the staff feedback, Phenoxyethanol SA should be removed from the formula entirely due to the preservative properties of Rose Water at the concentration used.
By incorporating the recommended emulsifier and adjusting the preservative, you can create a stable and effective serum for your skin concerns.
Related Products Mentioned
Natural Bisabolol (Brazil Chamomile)
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GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
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Light Cream Maker™
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Disodium EDTA
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MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine)
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Blueberry Pterostilbene
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Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)
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