Serum Formulation Feedback: AA-2G, Niacinamide, and Texture Issues
คำถาม
I have a serum formulation for brightening, anti-oxidation, and moisturizing using the following ingredients and percentages:
- Stabilized Vitamin C (AA-2G) 33%
- Natto Gum 5%
- Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)
- Acetyl Glucosamine 4%
- Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) 2%
My target pH is 6.5-6.8.
Could you please provide feedback on this formulation, including ingredient suitability, recommended percentages, compatibility issues, the expected texture from Pro Polymer™, and suggestions for improvement?
คำตอบ
Formulation Feedback and Suggestions
Regarding your serum formulation for brightening, anti-oxidation, and moisturizing, here is some feedback based on the ingredients and percentages provided:
Ingredient Suitability and Percentages
The ingredients you have chosen – Stabilized Vitamin C (AA-2G), Natto Gum, Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), and Acetyl Glucosamine – are generally suitable for the desired benefits of brightening, anti-oxidation, and moisturizing.
However, there are a few points to consider:
- Stabilized Vitamin C (AA-2G): The percentage of 33% is significantly higher than the recommended usage rate, which is typically 2-10%. Using such a high concentration may not increase effectiveness proportionally and could potentially cause stability issues or skin irritation. It is recommended to reduce the percentage to within the suggested range.
- Ingredient Compatibility: According to the information for Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G), it should not be used in formulas containing Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide) as it will affect the stability of the AA-2G. This is a critical incompatibility in your current formula. You may need to choose between using AA-2G (and removing Niacinamide) or using Niacinamide (and replacing AA-2G with a compatible form of Vitamin C like Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) or Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)). If you prioritize the benefits of AA-2G, remove Niacinamide. If Niacinamide is essential, consider a different Vitamin C derivative.
- Other Ingredients: Natto Gum at 5% and Acetyl Glucosamine at 4% are within their typical recommended usage ranges and contribute well to moisture and brightening.
pH Suitability
The target pH of 6.5-6.8 is indeed the optimal range for the stability of Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G). Adjusting the pH to this range after mixing is necessary if you proceed with AA-2G without Niacinamide. However, due to the incompatibility mentioned above, maintaining this pH will not ensure stability if both AA-2G and Niacinamide are present.
Gel Maker and Texture
You are using Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) at 2%. This ingredient can create a gel texture and has good tolerance for electrolytes, which is beneficial given the presence of Natto Gum (a weak electrolyte). However, based on the product description, Pro Polymer™ might give an initial sticky feeling upon application before drying to a thin film. If a completely non-sticky serum texture is a high priority, you might need to:
- Optimize the percentage of Pro Polymer™ (perhaps slightly lower, or test different concentrations).
- Consider combining Pro Polymer™ with other texture enhancers.
- Explore alternative gel makers known for providing a non-sticky feel, although based on the information available, Pro Polymer™ is a functional choice.
Summary of Suggestions
- Reduce AA-2G percentage: Lower the concentration of Stabilized Vitamin C (AA-2G) to the recommended range of 2-10%.
- Address Incompatibility: Decide whether to keep AA-2G or Niacinamide, as they are incompatible. If keeping AA-2G, remove Niacinamide. If keeping Niacinamide, replace AA-2G with a compatible Vitamin C derivative.
- Adjust pH: If you keep AA-2G (without Niacinamide), adjust the final pH of the formula to 6.5-6.8 for optimal stability.
- Optimize Gel Maker: Test the texture with 2% Pro Polymer™. If it is too sticky, consider adjusting the percentage or exploring other gel makers for a lighter, non-sticky feel.
By addressing the ingredient incompatibility and adjusting the AA-2G percentage, you can create a more stable and effective serum.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G Stabilized Vitamin C)