Serum formulation for acne, oiliness, brightening, and firmness - texture adjustment
Question
I am developing a serum formulation targeting acne, oiliness, brightening, and firmness. My current formula includes the following ingredients and percentages, but the texture is watery. Could you please review the formula and advise on how to improve the texture and overall effectiveness?
Proposed Formula:
- AcneBee: 5%
- Safe B3 (Vitamin B3 / Niacinamide): 4%
- Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic): 8%
- Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu): 1.5%
- Pro Polymer: 1%
- Water: 80.5%
Total: 100%
Answer
Hello,
Thank you for sharing your revised formula and asking for feedback. Your goal to address acne, oiliness, brightening, and firmness is well-targeted with the ingredients you've chosen.
The staff's recommendations to add a preservative (Phenoxyethanol SA) and a penetration enhancer (PE-1 Aqua) are very important for product safety, stability, and efficacy. A preservative prevents microbial growth, and a penetration enhancer helps the active ingredients absorb better into the skin.
Based on your original percentages and incorporating the staff's suggestions, here is a revised formula (totaling 100%):
- AcneBee: 5%
- Safe B3 (Vitamin B3 / Niacinamide): 4%
- Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic): 8%
- Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu): 1.5%
- Pro Polymer: 1% (Initial amount)
- Phenoxyethanol SA: 1%
- PE-1 Aqua: 3%
- Water: 76.5%
Total: 100%
Recommended Mixing Procedure:
- Combine Safe B3, Azelaic Acid, Copper Peptide, Phenoxyethanol SA, PE-1 Aqua, and Water. Stir or blend until all ingredients are fully dissolved or dispersed.
- Slowly add Pro Polymer while continuously stirring or blending until the mixture thickens and a gel consistency is achieved.
- Add AcneBee and mix thoroughly until the formula is homogeneous.
Regarding your experience with the formula being watery, this can happen depending on the specific grade of Pro Polymer, the concentration of other ingredients, and the mixing method. As the staff suggested, you can adjust the texture by adding an additional 0.5% to 1.0% of Pro Polymer. If you add more Pro Polymer, reduce the water percentage accordingly to keep the total at 100%. For example, if you add 1% more Pro Polymer, the water percentage would become 75.5%.
Briefly, the ingredients in your formula contribute to your goals:
- AcneBee & Azelaic Acid: Target acne and oiliness. Azelaic Acid also helps with brightening.
- Safe B3 (Niacinamide): Helps reduce oiliness, improve skin barrier function, and can contribute to brightening.
- Copper Peptide: Supports skin regeneration and can help with firmness.
- PE-1 Aqua: Enhances the delivery of these active ingredients into the skin.
This revised formula with the recommended additions and the adjusted mixing procedure should work well for your intended purposes. Don't hesitate to adjust the Pro Polymer amount slightly to get your desired texture.
Related Products Mentioned
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
PE-1 Aqua