Serum Formulation for Acne & Sensitive Skin: BHA, Royal Jelly, Nano Silver
Question
I am trying to formulate a light serum for sensitive skin with a lot of inflammatory acne. My goals are to treat acne, reduce dullness, and soothe sensitivity. I have attempted a formula using the following ingredients:
- Royal Jelly Extract 1.5%
- Fractionated Coconut Oil 5%
- Light Cream Maker™ 1%
- Aloe Vera Extract 3%
- GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine) 4%
- Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 4%
- Allantoin 0.5%
- Preservative
- Water
I have some specific questions regarding this formulation:
- I have a lot of inflammatory acne and sensitive skin. I was considering using Salicylic Acid (BHA) but am worried it might be too acidic and unsuitable for inflammatory acne and sensitive skin. Is Salicylic Acid appropriate, and how should I use it with sensitive skin?
- I understand that Royal Jelly Extract needs to be dissolved in oil. However, I am concerned that using oil like Fractionated Coconut Oil might cause clogged pores on my acne-prone skin. How should I incorporate Royal Jelly Extract into a formula without causing clogged pores?
- Can I add Nano Silver Pure to this formula? I see its properties include killing bacteria, reducing acne, and reducing sensitivity. Would it be compatible and beneficial?
Answer
Formula Review and Recommendations
Your original formula includes several good ingredients for addressing acne, dullness, and sensitivity. However, some adjustments are recommended to optimize it for your specific skin type and desired serum texture.
Ingredients Analysis and Adjustments
- Royal Jelly Extract (สารสกัดจากนมผึ้ง) 1.5%: This ingredient (likely the liquid form like AcneBee™) is beneficial for reducing oiliness and has antibacterial properties, which can help with acne. The staff confirmed it can be mixed directly into the water phase.
- Fractionated Coconut Oil 5%: As the staff mentioned, oils, even light ones like Fractionated Coconut Oil, can potentially clog pores for acne-prone skin. To create a light serum texture and minimize the risk of breakouts, it is recommended to remove this ingredient from your formula.
- Light Cream Maker™ 1%: This acts as an emulsifier and thickener. Since you are aiming for a light serum and removing the oil phase, 1% might result in a thicker texture than desired. You can adjust the percentage of Light Cream Maker™ to achieve your preferred serum viscosity. Start with a lower amount (e.g., 0.5%) and add more if needed. Be aware that Aloe Vera Extract can affect its viscosity.
- Aloe Vera Extract 3%: Excellent for soothing irritated and sensitive skin, and provides hydration. Keep this in your formula.
- GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine) 4%: This is a great addition for addressing dullness and promoting whitening, especially when combined with Vitamin B3. It also helps with hydration and can assist in reducing acne breakouts. Keep this at 4%.
- Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 4%: Vitamin B3 is highly beneficial for oily and acne-prone skin as it helps regulate oil production, reduces redness and inflammation associated with acne, and improves skin tone and barrier function. 4% is a good concentration. Keep this in your formula.
- Allantoin 0.5%: Allantoin is known for its soothing and anti-irritant properties, making it suitable for sensitive skin. The staff noted that its solubility in water at room temperature is around 0.5%. To ensure complete dissolution and stability, especially if storing in a cool place, it is recommended to slightly reduce the percentage to 0.3-0.4%.
- Preservative (สารกันเสีย): It is crucial to include a preservative to prevent microbial growth and ensure the safety and shelf life of your serum. Since you have sensitive skin, choosing a gentle preservative is important. Mild Preserved Eco™ is a good option that is gentle and effective. Use it at the recommended rate, typically 1.0-1.5%.
- Remaining Water: Adjust the amount of water to make up 100% of the formula after adding all other ingredients.
Addressing Your Specific Questions
- Salicylic Acid (BHA) and sensitive skin/inflammatory acne: Salicylic Acid (BHA) is effective at dissolving clogged pores, which are the root cause of inflammatory acne. While it can cause initial irritation, especially on sensitive skin, addressing clogged pores is key to preventing future inflammatory breakouts. If you wish to include a BHA, consider using a gentler, water-soluble form like SalicSoft® (Betaine Salicylate) or Complex Salicylic Acid. Start with a low concentration (e.g., 1-2%) and observe your skin's reaction. If irritation occurs, reduce the frequency of use or the concentration. It's a trade-off between treating the cause of clogged pores and managing sensitivity.
- Royal Jelly Extract and oil: As confirmed by the staff, the liquid form of Royal Jelly Extract (like AcneBee™) can be mixed directly into the water phase. You do not need to dissolve it in oil, and removing the Fractionated Coconut Oil is beneficial for your acne-prone skin.
- Nano Silver Pure: Nano Silver (Colloidal) can be added to your formula for its antibacterial properties, which can help reduce the bacteria contributing to inflammatory acne, and it also has anti-inflammatory effects. Use it at the recommended rate (e.g., 2% of the 2000ppm solution). However, be aware that Nano Silver (Colloidal) can be sensitive to electrolytes (like Aloe Vera Extract in your formula) and salts, which might affect its stability. Add it in the final step and observe for any changes in clarity or separation over time.
Suggested Revised Formula (Example)
Here is a possible revised formula based on your goals and the recommendations:
- Royal Jelly Extract (สารสกัดจากนมผึ้ง): 1.5%
- Light Cream Maker™: 0.5 - 1.0% (Adjust for desired texture)
- Aloe Vera Extract: 3%
- GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine): 4%
- Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 4%
- Allantoin: 0.3 - 0.4%
- Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative): 1.0 - 1.5%
- Nano Silver (Colloidal, 2000ppm): 2% (Optional, add with caution regarding stability)
Water: Remaining amount to 100%
(Optional additions)*
- SalicSoft® (Betaine Salicylate) or Complex Salicylic Acid: 1-2% (For clogged pores, add to water phase and adjust pH if needed for SalicSoft®)
Mixing Method (Cold Process)
- In a clean container, combine the water, Aloe Vera Extract, GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine), Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide), Allantoin, and Royal Jelly Extract. Stir or mix gently until all powders are fully dissolved.
- Slowly add the Light Cream Maker™ to the water phase while stirring. Continue mixing until the desired serum texture is achieved. Avoid high-speed mixing.
- Add the preservative (e.g., Mild Preserved Eco™) and stir to combine.
- If using SalicSoft®, ensure it is fully dissolved in a small amount of water (adjusting pH with Triethanolamine if necessary, aiming for pH 3.8-4.2) before adding to the main mixture. If using Complex Salicylic Acid, add it directly to the water phase in step 1.
- If using Nano Silver (Colloidal), add it in the final step and stir gently. Observe for any changes in clarity or separation over time.
- Check and adjust the final pH of the serum if necessary, ensuring it is within a suitable range for skin application and ingredient stability (generally pH 4.0-6.0 is good for most ingredients and skin).
This revised formula focuses on water-soluble ingredients suitable for a light serum texture, addresses your concerns about oil and clogged pores, and incorporates ingredients for acne, sensitivity, and whitening. Remember to perform a small patch test before applying the full product to your face, especially given your sensitive skin.
Related Products Mentioned
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Allantoin
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Light Cream Maker™
Fractionated Coconut Oil
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)