Serum Formulation Review

Your formula includes a good selection of active ingredients known for their anti-aging and brightening properties.

• Anti-Aging Ingredients: Repair Activator™ (Bifida Ferment Lysate), Sea Kelp Extract, Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation), PiteraEx™ (Saccharomyces Lysate Extract), Wrinkle-Lax™, and Wild Yam Extract (Diosgenin) target various aspects of aging, such as DNA repair, anti-glycation, fibroblast stimulation, muscle relaxation, and skin firmness.
• Brightening Ingredients: Palmaria Palmata Extract and Natto Gum contribute to skin radiance and gentle whitening.

The concentrations of the active ingredients in your formula are generally within or at the higher end of the recommended usage rates, which suggests the formula has good potential to deliver the desired anti-aging and brightening effects.

Addressing Your Questions

1. Can distilled water be substituted with Chamomile Water (Anthemis Nobilis)?
   Yes, you can substitute distilled water with Chamomile Water. Chamomile Water offers soothing benefits for the skin. The Chamomile Water product available contains a preservative (Phenoxyethanol 0.8%), and your formula already includes Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus) at 1%. Using 63.3% Chamomile Water will add a small amount of additional phenoxyethanol, but the total preservative level in the final formula should remain within safe and effective limits for preservation.

2. Can this formula be mixed?
   Yes, this formula can be mixed, but there are some considerations regarding ingredient solubility and mixing order due to varying heat sensitivities. The primary challenge is incorporating the Wild Yam Extract (Diosgenin 95%), which is a powder soluble in highly polar oil, ethanol, or surfactant, into a predominantly water-based formula that uses Light Cream Maker™ as an emulsifier/thickener.

3. Can the expected results (anti-aging and brightening) be achieved?
   Based on the active ingredients and their concentrations, this formula has a strong potential to provide anti-aging benefits by addressing wrinkles, firmness, and skin repair. It also includes ingredients for brightening and improving skin radiance. Therefore, you can reasonably expect results in these areas.

Potential Issues and Suggested Adjustments

The main potential issue lies in dissolving the Wild Yam Extract powder effectively in this formulation structure, which lacks a significant oil phase where it is typically dissolved. Light Cream Maker™ is an O/W emulsifier designed for formulas with an oil phase (up to 20%), although it can also thicken water.

Here is a suggested adjustment to the mixing procedure to address the Wild Yam Extract solubility and the heat sensitivity of other ingredients:

Recommended Mixing Procedure:

1. Prepare Phase A (Water Phase - Part 1): Combine the Chamomile Water (or distilled water), Natto Gum, and Sea Kelp Extract. Stir gently until fully dispersed/dissolved.
2. Prepare Phase B (Wild Yam Dissolution): In a separate small container, dissolve the Wild Yam Extract powder. Since your formula doesn't have an oil phase, you could try dissolving it in a small amount of a compatible solvent like ethanol (e.g., 1-2% of the total formula, reducing the water percentage accordingly) or a suitable surfactant solution. Gentle warming (below 60°C for less than 10 minutes) might assist dissolution if using a solvent or oil (if you decide to add a small oil phase).
3. Combine Phases A and B: Add the dissolved Wild Yam Extract mixture (Phase B) to Phase A and mix well.
4. Add Light Cream Maker™ (Phase C): Add the Light Cream Maker™ to the mixture and stir or blend using a low speed (below 2500 rpm) until the desired serum consistency is achieved.
5. Add Heat-Sensitive Actives (Phase D): Once the mixture has cooled (if heated) and the base is formed, gently add the remaining heat-sensitive ingredients one by one, ensuring each is fully incorporated before adding the next:
   • Repair Activator™
   • Palmaria Palmata Extract
   • Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation)
   • Grape Seed Extract (Proanthocyanidins)
   • PiteraEx™ (Saccharomyces Lysate Extract)
   • Wrinkle-Lax™
6. Add Preservative (Phase E): Finally, add the Phenoxyethanol SA and mix thoroughly.
7. Final Check: Check the final pH of the serum. Ideally, it should be in the range of 4.0-5.5 for optimal stability and efficacy of the ingredients like Ume Extract and Wild Yam Extract. Adjust with a suitable pH adjuster if necessary.

This adjusted procedure ensures that the Wild Yam Extract is properly dissolved and that the heat-sensitive ingredients are added at a temperature that preserves their efficacy.

The formula is well-designed to target anti-aging and offers some brightening benefits. With careful mixing, you should be able to create an effective serum.