Serum Formulation Evaluation and Suggestions

Based on the ingredients you've provided and information from our database, here is an assessment of your serum formula aimed at reducing wrinkles and sagging skin.

Your formula includes several excellent ingredients known for their anti-aging, moisturizing, and skin-barrier support properties:

• Jojoba Oil and Squalane (Olive) are great emollients that mimic skin lipids, providing moisture and improving skin texture.
• Skin-Barrier™ contains ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids essential for restoring and strengthening the skin barrier, which is crucial for healthy, resilient skin.
• Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) is a stable, oil-soluble Vitamin C derivative known for its antioxidant properties, ability to stimulate collagen synthesis, and help with skin brightening.
• Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol) is a potent antioxidant that protects the skin from free radical damage and supports anti-aging effects.
• Pure-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract, 98% EGCG) is a strong antioxidant that can help reduce wrinkles and manage oiliness.
• Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate and Natural Bisabolol are effective soothing agents that reduce irritation and inflammation. Natural Bisabolol also offers gentle brightening effects.
• Hi-Lupeol™ is an extract known for stimulating collagen production, directly addressing the concern of sagging skin.
• WaterLock™ helps prevent transepidermal water loss, keeping the skin hydrated.
• LecithinGel™ acts as a binder and emulsifier, helping to create a stable formula and potentially enhancing the delivery of oil-soluble ingredients.
• Mild Preserved Eco™ is a preservative alternative to protect the formula from microbial growth.

Potential Issues and Suggested Modifications

While the formula contains many beneficial ingredients, there are a few points to consider for compatibility, stability, and efficacy:

1. CysWhite™ (Cysteamine HCL): This ingredient is primarily used for skin whitening and treating hyperpigmentation like melasma. It has a strong odor and, importantly, is often recommended to be washed off the skin after a short contact time (15-30 minutes) due to potential irritation and stability issues in water-based formulas. Including it at 5% in a leave-on serum intended for overall anti-aging and sagging is not recommended. It poses significant formulation challenges (stability in water, odor control) and usage issues (requiring wash-off) that are incompatible with a typical serum application. For a serum focused on wrinkles and sagging, CysWhite™ is not a suitable ingredient.

   • Suggestion: Remove CysWhite™ from this serum formula. If targeting hyperpigmentation is also a goal, consider a separate, targeted treatment product formulated specifically for Cysteamine HCL.

2. RoseShield™ (Rosa Roxburghii Fruit Extract): We could not find a product with this exact name and description in our database. We found several rose extracts (like Rose (Rosa Damascena) Extract, Cabbage Rose (Rosa Centifolia) Extract, Rose de mai (Rosa Centifolia) Extract), but their descriptions indicate they are primarily used for scent and marketing purposes, without proven efficacy on the skin for anti-aging.

   • Suggestion: If "RoseShield™" is a specific active ingredient with documented anti-aging benefits, please clarify its exact nature. If it is one of the general rose extracts found, it will not contribute to the anti-aging effects. You could keep it for scent or remove it if focusing purely on efficacy.

3. Ceramild water: This ingredient was not found in our database. Its exact composition and function are unknown.

   • Suggestion: Please clarify what "Ceramild water" is. If it is intended as another source of ceramides, Skin-Barrier™ is already included at a significant percentage (5%) which is effective for barrier repair. Including an unidentified ingredient could pose compatibility or stability risks. Consider removing it unless its nature is confirmed.

4. Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) Compatibility: The description for Perfect-C™ states that the formula pH must be within 5.0-5.5 and recommends adding 0.2% Disodium EDTA if water is present to help stabilize it.

   • Suggestion: Ensure the final formula pH is adjusted to 5.0-5.5 and add 0.2% Disodium EDTA to the water phase to maintain the stability and efficacy of Perfect-C™. Also, avoid using Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) or Zinc PCA in the same formula with Perfect-C™.

5. Formula Balance and Texture: Removing CysWhite™ (5%) and potentially Ceramild water (1%) means you will need to adjust the water percentage to maintain a total of 100%. If both are removed, the water percentage would increase from 51% to 57%.

Revised Formula (Example, assuming removal of CysWhite™ and Ceramild water)

• Purified Water: 57%
• Jojoba Oil: 10%
• Squalane (Olive): 10%
• Skin-Barrier™: 5%
• Perfect-C™: 5%
• RoseShield™ (or alternative/removal): 3%
• Vitamin E: 1%
• Mild Preserved Eco™: 1%
• Pure-EGCG™: 1%
• Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate: 1%
• Natural Bisabolol: 1%
• Hi-Lupeol™: 1%
• WaterLock™: 1%
• LecithinGel™: 3%
• Disodium EDTA: 0.2% (adjust water slightly to accommodate this)

Mixing Considerations

This formula is an emulsion. You would typically:

1. Combine the water phase ingredients (Water, Skin-Barrier™, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, WaterLock™, Disodium EDTA).
2. Combine the oil phase ingredients (Jojoba Oil, Squalane, Perfect-C™, Vitamin E, Natural Bisabolol, Hi-Lupeol™). Hi-Lupeol™ and Pure-EGCG™ may need careful dispersion as they are powders/low solubility. Avoid excessive heat for heat-sensitive oils and actives.
3. Add LecithinGel™ to the water phase and mix to disperse/thicken.
4. Slowly add the oil phase to the water phase while mixing to form the emulsion.
5. Add Mild Preserved Eco™ during the cooling phase below 80°C, preferably in the final step.
6. Adjust pH to 5.0-5.5.

Conclusion

Your proposed formula has a strong foundation for an anti-aging serum with good moisturizing, barrier repair, antioxidant, and collagen-boosting ingredients. However, the inclusion of CysWhite™ is not suitable for a leave-on serum. Clarifying or removing the unidentified ingredients ("RoseShield™" and "Ceramild water") and ensuring the correct pH and inclusion of Disodium EDTA for Perfect-C™ are crucial steps. After modification, thorough stability testing is highly recommended to ensure the product remains effective and safe over time.